How to Tie the Perfect Car-top Hitch

Source: Cottage Life

I am constantly either taking something big up to the cottage, to the garbage transfer station in Otter Lake, or helping someone move a piece of furniture.  Fortunately I have either a SUV or a car with a good set of roof racks but most importantly, I have always been very careful to firmly secure my load.

Most SUVs have racks on the roof but most people have no clue what is the safest way to secure their load up there.  I am sure you have seen vehicles on the road with loads barely secured - accidents waiting to happen.

For heavens sake secure your loads! Here is a few tips:

1) Use a car-top rack - do not just throw it up on the roof. Most SUV come with them built in, but otherwise be safe go buy, rent or borrow a set of roof racks that (most importantly) fit your roof.  Some cars have special groves in the edges of the roof to accommodate roof racks.

2) Secure the load in at least two places on top of the roof.  That usually means placing the roof racks as far apart on the roof as possible and securing the load at those points.  This means securing the load in two places - one as far forward and the other as far tot he back of the roof as possible.  Unless the trip is short - very short - just securing to the roof racks is not secure!  You need to secure the load to something solid on the car - this means to something on the vehicle that is NOT going to fall off.  It may sound dumb but even running a rope through the windows and back around to the load will work.  Sure it may be a bit noisy but it will be safe.

3) Secure the ends of Long and flat Loads. If the load is long and hangs over the hood/back of the vehicle ( like a canoe) then you should secure the ends of the load to the front and to the back.  The bumpers are not usually good things to tie to - look for the tow hooks or underneath at the points where the bumpers are attached.  This approach is a must when transporting a flat load that can catch the 'wind'. In fact anything that can catch the wind and sail away should have an extra rope or two to secure it.

4) Use the right knot.  It is an unfortunate reality that the scouting movement is not attracting as many young people as in the past - hence knot making skills are a thing of the past. The key to tying down a load is to make sure (a) that the knot stays tied, and (b) that it keeps the load tightly to the vehicle.  Having been a scout I use a bunch of knots but the most useful is something that is akin to a trucker's hitch.  The Cottage Life magazine has a great article on how to make the trucker's hitch knot here.

So if it is taking up the canoe to the cottage, moving Grandma's rocking chair, or picking up furniture from IKEA, properly securing the load will make the trip safer for the load, for you and for everyone else on the road.
 ;-)

Every Bunkie needs a Loft...

A loft makes a Bunkie a young person magnet!

There is something about sleeping up high that makes it fun for kids. And our bunkie loft is no different, so we had to make it accessible and safe.

So as part of the renovations this summer we build and installed a permanent step ladder and a guard railing.

Both were made with cedar for looks, longevity and most of all to keep maintenance to a bare minimum.  Plus I like the smell!

The Ladder
It was a tight fit so the only safe alternative was a permanently installed step ladder.  I built it with standard step height of 7 inches -- so it is very kind to short little legs.

Each of the steps are inlay-ed in to the stringers by a half-inch and glued.  To make sure the ladder stays together I used a threaded rod to bolt the stringers together roughly a third of the distance from the top and bottom.  The ladder is secured to the loft at the top.

The Safety Rail

The safety rail is pretty much a standard deck railing with the exception that it is a bit shorter.  I made sure the spacing between the 'rails' met building code (<4 inches) by using a piece of 2x4 to space them.

Related Posts:  

;-)

The Fall Routine: Splitting Wood

Las weekend I cut, split and stacked all the firewood that we cut down late last winter (see More on that coming in future posts) and during the summer.

While I have rented a log splitter in past years, I found a 4-ton electric log splitter on sale at Canadian tire and decided to give it a try.  I was concerned that the 4-ton version wouldn't be powerful enough but was pleasantly surprised.  The splitter easily split even the biggest logs over 14 inches in diameter.  The biggest problem was knots but with a bit of clever planning these tough logs can be mastered.

This model is quite compact, and hence, I placed it on our picnic table to get it up to a more comfortable work height.

Safety

There are a few tips to stay safe when using the splitter

1. Wear safety glasses or a face shield
2. Use  as short an extension cord as possible and low guage wire or you will find that you will be constantly tripping a circuit breaker, and over heating the splitter.
3. Be sure to open up the air release value before you start splitting - and close it just before storage.
4. Keep your fingers out of the way
5. Do not defeat the safety interlock system - that is having to push a button and a separate lever at the same time.

Log Loading Tips
Through trial and error you will determine the the best way to load the logs to get the best splitting result.  Here are a few tips to start with:

1. Load the widest end of the log against the knife side of the splitter
2. Load any logs not cut straight with the longest side downwards

Demonstration
I am kicking myself for not video tapping the operation of the splitter but I found a excellent demonstration on the model I have on YouTube:



Related Posts:

Burning Firewood: Not all Wood is Created Equal

Tips to Dry Your Firewood Correctly

;-)

Dock Building: Tip No 1

I dissembled the first dock I built and intended to scavenge it for parts for the new dock.  The metal hardware can be quite pricey so I was hoping to save a few dollars.

One of the hardware parts I was able to save were the clamps that hold the metal pilings (the dock legs) on the side of the dock.  But then I realized that the design of the old clamp was different than the newer ones.

The critical difference is where the clamping bolts are - these are the bolts that tighten against the pipe leg.  On the old version these stick straight out whereas on the newer version they stick out the the side.

I realised I compensated for the location of the bolts by installing the legs on the inside of the dock so they were not a safety hazzard.

I kind of like the new version -- I can imagine what it would feel like bumping up to the old version if I was a boat or worse still my naked back as I fall into the water...  Ouch!

The TIP:  Consider where and how you will be using the hardware as you build your dock and especially the safety considerations.
 ;-)

Installating a Stove Pipe

In the previous post I described our experience with a chimney fire and how to prevent, fire and survive one.  My response to our fire was to inspect, determine if there was and damages and to improve the survivability should it happen again.

We were fortunate that the chimney we used was all of top notch quality, hence, there was little impact as a result of the fire.  Still I wished to take extra precautions.

The Inspection:

We removed the stove pipe and on inspection discovered:

• Absolutely no damage, and in fact no deposits in the stainless steel chimney including no soot which was very surprising
• Even the stove pipe, although sooty, was not damaged by the fire
• But the stove pipe was damaged by the removal process

So the stove pipe needed to be replaced.

The New Stove Pipe:
I purchased a new stove pipe from the same manufacturer (Selkirk) of the chimney and the ceiling assembly.  The length from the top of the stove to the ceiling assembly is 76 inches.  To fill this gap I purchased a 6-foot telescopic plus a 12-inch segment.  The shorter 12-inch piece was first installed on the wood stove and then the telescopic piece was use on top of that. All the stove pipe components were secured with self-tapping stainless steel screws.

Finally I reinstalled the flue thermometer 24 inched from the top of the wood stove.

The new stove pipe has a cleaner look to it, and we are very pleased with the result.

Suppliers Mentioned:
Search Amazon.com for Selkirk Stove Pipe

Related Posts:
What to do if you have a Chimney Fire
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What to do if you have a Chimney Fire

About a month ago we had a chimney fire - or at least we think so!

It was a bit frightening!

I had just fired up the wood stove and it was burning at a nice 450 to 500 degrees when after a two hours there was a curious bang (still not sure from where or why) and then the smoke detector suddenly rang!

While there wasn't any visible smoke -- there were other telltale signs that something was amiss.  The flue thermometer shot right up to 900 degrees, there was a strange "whooshing" sound in the stove pipe and the flue thermometer was curiously tilted.  It appeared that the inside of the double-walled stove pipe had shifted down pulling the thermometer down with it.

I immediately shut the damper down which reduced the fire in the stove, and then quickly surveyed the chimney in the attic to be sure the fire was contained.  Then we just waited it out.

After about 5 minutes the "Whooshing" subsided and the flue temperature came rapidly down to below 400 degrees.  We let the fire burn itself out and the thermometer slowly returned to its original horizontal position.  We didn't us the woodstove for the remainder of the weekend just in case.

What should you do to Prevent a Chimney Fire?

The primary cause of chimney and stove pipe fires is the build-up of creosote in the chimney.  The best way to avoid creosote is to avoid creating the circumstances where creosote can be formed and deposit itself on the inside of the chimney.  The way to do that is:

• Always burn well seasoned, dry firewood
• Always keep the flue temperature between 400 and 800 degrees

How to protect in case of a Chimney Fire?

I thought I was using seasoned wood and I watched the temperature.  But we still had a chimney fire.  So it is best to ensure that you build a chimney system that can withstand just such an invitability:

• Use a stainless steel double-walled insulated chimney
• Use a double-walled stove pipe to connect the stove to the chimney
• Use the correct parts to connect the stove pipe to the chimney
  (My suggestion is that you get and use all three from the same manufacturer so they all interface well)
• Be sure to have an appropriate chimney cap with a spark arrester
• Install a flue thermometer in the flue pipe (and in the correct location)
• Purchase a fire extinguisher and store it visibility near the wood stove.

What to do during a Chimney Fire?

If you have built a modern chimney systems like suggested above, you will likely easily survive a chimney fire.  In fact many of the newer chimney systems are constructed to survive many such fires.  As long as the fire is contained inside the chimney system you will be safe -- the chimney fire will burn itself out.  The real problem is when poorer materials are used or the chimney is improperly installed, and the fire escapes the confines of the chimney.  But do you do when you have a chimney fire:

• Do NOT panic!
• Immediately shut the air damper on the wood stove - do not open the stove - the whole idea is to starve the fire of oxygen!
• Check the entire chimney system to ensure the fire has not escaped - if it has -- evacuate immediately! (The most like location where the fire will escape is somewhere in the attic and you will not be equipped to fight such a fire!)
• Otherwise, wait out the fire, carefully watching the flue temperature - it will tell you when the fire is out.

After the Chimney fire:

You have just had a chimney fire and it may be a sign that there is somethng wrong in your chimney.  Be safe:

• Do not start another fire until you have had the chimney inspected and cleaned by a professional chimney sweep
• Replace any damaged chimney elements

Replacing the Stove Pipe

To be on the safe side the following weekend I replaced the stove pipe with a new one.  I'll describe that process in the next post and what I found when I inspected the chimney.

Related Posts:

Selecting the Right Woodstove Thermometer

7 Reasons to Install a Woodstove Chimney Thermometer

Safe Wood Stove Practice: Knowing the Temperature

Cottage on the Edge: How to Install a Flue Gas Stove Pipe Thermometer

5 Tips on installing a Wood Stove Chimney

Cottage on the Edge: Installing the Woodstove Chimney

Cottage on the Edge: How to Install a Flue Gas Stove Pipe Thermometer
Adding to the Wood Pile - Do's and Don't for what you can/should burn

;-)
Search Amazon.com for napoleon fireplace

Knee Pads: A Mandatory Cottage Building Tool

For just about every Cottage DIY project I take on these days, it seems that kneeling is required and my knees seem to take a beating. Perhaps it is that I am getting on in years, and as a consequent not quite as limber, but having a set of knee pads certainly makes the DIY projects so much less painful.

The pads make doing the DIY project less painful but also the lingering ache after the job is reduced.

In my book, and tool kit, a $9.99 pair of knee pads is absolutely mandatory!

But there good pairs and not so good pairs which has a lot to do with your physical attributes: size, weight, shape of knee, leg length.  If you can, endure the embarassment, and try them out in the store before you buy them.  I have found the keys to a successful fit are:

• Long enough to cover above and below the knee
• Wide straps
• Lots of Velcro area
• Form fitted to the shape of the knee
• Light

;-)

An Easy Way to Keep the Critters Out!

One of the beauties of cottage country is being closer to nature. Being closer to nature means being closer to the little critters that like cozy warm and dry homes we build for them. It requires constant vigilance to keep them on the outside.

One easy way is to make sure the obvious openings that we create like the range hood exhaust (shown in the picture) have bars on the windows so-to-speak.

Be sure to purchase all such vents with maximum quarter-inch grates. That will be sufficient to keep the small critters like birds, bats, mice and squirrels from having an easy access.

Also this one has a metal flap in it that open when the fan is on and closes shut when it is off.

;-)

7 Reasons to Install a Woodstove Chimney Thermometer

Image via Wikipedia

The main reason to install a thermometer for your wood stove is SAFETY - not to burn down your cottage! But there are other reasons - here are seven:

Safety: A quick look and you know instantly, the thermometer tells you if your fire is burning too hot, with the danger of a chimney fire. Or too cool, with incomplete combustion, which causes smoldering woodsmoke to condense as hazardous creosote.

Extends Life of Your Stove:
Excessive smoke or excessive heat will degrade catalytic combustors in the new EPA stoves. Without a thermometer, you're merely guessing at conditions in your firebox. A small investment in a stovepipe thermometer can pay handsome dividends, by guarding against premature replacement of your wood stove.

Less Frequent Chimney Cleaning:
Creosote, the bane of stovepipes, builds up surprisingly rapidly, especially in airtight stoves, when fires burn at consistently low temperatures. Stovepipes from non-catalytic combustor stoves should always be equipped with thermometers to enable the owner to avoid operating conditions where creosote builds up and causes frequent cleaning of the flue.

Longer-Lasting Fires:
When woodstoves burn too hot, flue gases rush up the chimney and valuable heating energy is lost forever. An inefficient fire leads to unnecessary reloading of fuel.

Saves Money:
The cost of woodstoves, chimney cleaning and wood... A thermometer for your woodstove saves you needless expenses and effort by teaching you how to operate your stove at best efficiency and lowest total cost.

Conserves Wood Resources:
If for no other reason, you should monitor your stove's combustion in order to avoid unnecessary waste of fuel -- truly $ flying up the chimney!

Environmental Air Quality:
The woodstove that burns efficiently generates less air pollution. Older woodstoves especially require thermometers to control smoke emissions. Owners of new stoves benefit, too, by using a thermometer to help optimize stove performance.

Coming Up:
In the next few posts we will describe:
1) What type of thermometer to pick for your stove
2) How to install a thermometer.

Related Posts:
Safe Wood Stove Practice: Knowing the Temperature

;-)

Lesson Learned: Buy Sheds Designed for Canadian Winters

I learned a hard lesson about buying structures designed for Canadian winters!

The shed you see in the picture was purchased at Costco. Quite inexpensive for the size of the shed but it is totally unsuitable for the volume of snow we get in Canada. Manufactured in Israel - sold in Canada...

The problem is the snow load on the roof. We received and had over 4 feet of snow on the roof. It would have collapsed for sure if I have not strengthened it with a few pieces of plywood!

Actually the shed was well engineered - not just for Canadian snow!

;-)

6 Tips for a Professional Railing Installation

A professional looking stairway and landing railing can be accomplished even by the woodworking novice. Here are the key tips to success:

1) Prefab: The key trick is to buy pre-made railing materials!

I actually used materials from two styles of railing. I used the posts and rail from one and the rot iron balusters from another style.

Buy the materials from one of the big box stores and ask for help in selecting what you need. Bring an exact measurement of the stair and landing. They will take it from there.

Take a picture of the location, from several angles, and bring it with you

2) The 3.5-inch rule. In most jurisdictions the balusters must be no further apart than 4 inches.

3) Measure Twice - Cut Once. This stuff is expensive - always check your measurements. It is difficult to cut it longer.

4) Use SHARP Drill bits! The tolerances are very close when drilling the hide-y holes for the connecting hardware. Use the right size, and type of drill bits, and make sure they are sharp. Be patient when drilling - check your dept of hole often.

5) Dry fit and layout your pieces often. Get a second pair of hands and temporarily stand the railing. Does it look right?

6) Get Matching Touch-up Paint! YES! You are going to make a mistake, chip a rail, or need to paint your end cuts.

;-)

Building a Poop Deck for the BBQ

One fun project was building this poop deck to house the BBQ.

We purchased one of those higher end (Not the top end) stainless steel BBQs, and it just didn't fit as well as the old smaller previous one...

...and for sure as it was at least three times bigger.

While the side deck is 4.5 feet wide, it gets cramped when the BBQ is there - where we wish to store AND use it...

And we didn't wish to have it under the Gazebo as we deemed that rather dangerous!

So I built a bit of an extension tot he side deck to house the BBQ.

As guests say - cute... I say practical...

;-)

Creating Clean Water: UV Filters

I mentioned in the previous post that we draw our water from the Lake rather than a well. This presents an additional risk from thing that grow in lakes - in particular I was concerned about bacteria and viruses including chlorine resistant cysts such as Cryptosporidium and Giardia - no beaver fever for me!.

After a bit of a Internet search I settled on the systems manufactured by Trojan, built right here in Canada. In particular I purchased the TrojanUVMax D4.

The folks at Trojan have a great selector tool for determining which of their models fit your specific needs.

The key features I appreciated are:

1) User Interface

• Lamp timer display starts at 365 and counts down the days to annual lamp replacement
• Mute button allows you to silence an alarm

2) Lamp/Sleeve Combination

• Lamp and sleeve are removed without the use of any tools
• Lamp and sleeve remove from the UV chamber as one piece ensuring you are aware of any build up of minerals on the sleeve that may interfere with the proper UV dose being delivered to the water

3) Advanced Lamp Technology

• Low pressure high-output lamp technology provides higher UV output for better water purification in a system approximately half the size of conventional systems - saving space and making installation simpler

4) Constant Current Electronic Power Supply

• More energy efficient
• Withstands fluctuations in voltage that can cause low UV output and damage to the lamp

5) Safety Cap & Special Lamp Plug

• Safety cap prevents children from accessing the lamp or electrical components. It also prevents the lamp plug from accidentally being disconnected. Lamp plug design ensures that no one can power the UV lamp if it's not in the UV chamber. This prevents damage to eyes and skin from UV light.

;-)

Creating Clean Water: GE Household Filter

We draw water from the lake, hence, it has a bit more potentially bad things in it than well water so an effective filtration system is critical. Part of the system I have employed uses two GE filters that are rated for an entire house.

The model I used, GXWH20F, has some great attributes that make it easy to use:

1) the cartridge cover (this is called a sump) is clear so you can see what is happening to the filter.

2) 3/4 inch connections which fit our system perfectly

3) Pressure relief vent which makes filter changes easier

4) Filter reminder light which provides an alert when to change the filter cartridge

Installation Tips:

1) Install shut off valves on either side of the filters - so that you can stop the flow while changing filters

2) Install so that you can get at the sump covers easily to change the cartridges.

3) Install it as close to the source as possible so that you are protecting all of the system.

Coming Up:
We talk more about the UV filter

;-)

Creating Clean Water at the Cottage

Clean and drinkable water is very important!

Perhaps I went overboard but I put quite a lot of effort in to ensuring the water at the cottage is clean and drinkable.

Here you can see the first iteration of the water filtration system that I installed - starting from the left edge of the picture:

1) Pressure switch - the blue box is the pressure switch which controls the pump in the lake. It is attached to the pressure tank (not shown)

2) Two Whole House Filters - These are the two filters in the middle of the picture. The left most one uses a 30 micron filter. The right one holds a 5 micron carbon filter. The 30 micron filter is a first stage, removing the larger material from the water. The 5 micron filter has two purpsoes: a) to take out the small material that gets byt the first filter, and 2) takes out some of those nasty tastes.

3) UV Filter - This is the stainless steel filter to the right of the whole house filters. This filter uses a high powered UV light to sterilize the water as it passes by. The model used here is rated to treat the water for the whole home, eliminating 99.99% of bacteria and viruses including chlorine resistant cysts that are not tested for in routine water tests (such as Cryptosporidium
and Giardia - no beaver fever for me!).

4) PEX Manifold - This is the copper manifold on the right of the picture with all the PEX pipes connected to it. It`s purpose is to distribute the water to the various locations in the Cottage

Coming Up:
In the next few posts we will dig in to the parts of the water purification system in a bit more depth.

Products used:
Trojan UV MAX D Filter
GE Household Filters
PEX

Related Posts:

We Have Water! - Apr 28, 2009

Cottage on the Edge: Installing the Water System: Materials Purchased - Oct 03, 2008

4 Reasons Why PEX is a DIY Plumber's Dream! - Nov 04, 2008

PEX wins Hands Down! - Sep 20, 2008

;-)

We Have Water!

Over the past two weekends I completed installing all the water systems and tested it. The pump in the lake started with no problems, and other than a few loose connections there were no leaks.

I discovered that the shower faucet is not working properly so this coming weekend the task of fixing or replacing that is a high priority.

I also install a reverse osmosis filter under the kitchen sink... and it all appears to function without a problem.

I took water samples from before and after the reverse osmosis filter to test the potability of the water.

Coming Up:
In the next few posts I will explore:

• The structure of the water system I installed
• The filtering system installed
• The outcome of the water testing
  

Related Posts:
Cottage on the Edge: Installing the Water Pressure Tank
Bosch 2400ES Tankless Water Heater: Sneak Peek
Installing the Water System: Materials Purchased
Installing the Tankless Water Heater
11 Rules for Venting a Tankless Water Heater (Gas)
6 Criteria for Sellecting a Tankless Water Heater
Cottage on the Edge: PEX versus Copper Piping: Pros & Cons
5 reasons to use tankless water heaters

;-)

Installing a Basement Subfloor: another tip

Get yourself a pair of knee pads!

They will be a life safer!

If you are going to be installing a subfloor and/or a finish floor like the laminate we put in, you are going to be on your knees for a good part of the time. That will be hours! I estimate that the subfloor took us over 12 hours to do. It would have been a very painful 12 hours without the knee pads!

I am positive I would not be walking today if it was not for my knee pads...


Related Posts:

9 Tips for Installing Laminate Floor - Monday, January 12, 2009
4 Tips for Installing Basement Sub-Floor - Wednesday, January 28, 2009

;-)

Re-inforcing a Shed Roof

This fall I reinforced the shed roof with a couple sheets of plywood. It was a hastily done task as it was snowing at the time - I used some scrap lumber I had left over from the Cottage construction.
But it was very necessary! As you can see it is only the middle of December and already there is almost three feet of snow on the shed roof.
Last winter the shed roof almost collapsed under the weight of the snow. Plus it was damaged and leaked during the spring melt.
I quickly nailed two sheets of plywood to a centre board at the peak of the roof, and inserted a post inside the shed to provide additional support for the centre beam.
So far it looks like the quick & dirty fix is working. Next Spring/summer I intend to remove this quick fix and build a 'real' roof with a solid structure and shingles. But for now this will keep the contents safe for the winter.
Coming Up:
This weekend we are painting - both Saturday and Sunday. Hopefully we will be able to get two coats on both the ceiling and the walls on the main floor.
Related Posts:

Cottage on the Edge: Snow, Snow, and more Snow - Dec 18, 2008

Snow & Winter has arrived! - Dec 02, 2008

Snow and the impact on Cottage Construction - Nov 29, 2008

;-)

5 Tips on installing a Wood Stove Chimney

Two weekends ago we installed the chimney and wood stove, and fired up the wood stove. Not a moment too soon as it was FREEZING that weekend - both wet and cold.

Fortunately, we got a break in the rainy weather long enough to install all the exterior elements of the chimney.

Here are some tips to a safe and secure chimney installation experience:

1) The Right Height
In most jurisdictions the chimney must be at least two feet higher than any part of the roof within 10 feet (Horizontally).

2) Secure it
If the chimney is going to be over 4 feet high secure it with braces. The brace needs to be at least 2/3 the way up the chimney.

3) Weatherize it
Make sure you install the roof flashing and caulk it properly, install the storm collar and have a chimney cap.

4) Be Safe - Burning
Be sure your chimney cap has a spark arresting screen.

5) Be Safe - Installing
Above all be sure to be safe when installing. We used a safety harness for everyone who was up on the roof. Be sure to secure the roof for the harness both on the opposing side of the roof to a solid structure that can hold a multiple of the weight of the user AND that the rope is secure from rolling off the roof.

Related Posts:
Installing the Wood Stove Chimney

;-)

Disabled-Persons Modifications

My Mother had a stroke, and hence, has difficult maneuvering around a toilet like many disabled persons.

Knowing that I would be installing a assisting bar on the wall beside the toilet, I installed extra wood supports between the wall studs. Now when I come to install the bar I will be assured there is plenty of support to screw into.

In the picture, just below and above the wire, I installed a 2x10 block in the two stud spaces beside the toilet.

This is only one of several modification for the disabled I will be adding to the construction considerations. The key is to think through the disabled person's needs and build in the necessary modifications during the construction. It is often more difficult, sometime imposable to may the changes afterwards.

In this case installing the supports before the drywall makes the a lot easier, and eliminates the guess work of where the studs are later.

Related Posts:

;-)