3 Tips for creating a Pex Water Control Panel

Setting up a control panel for the cold water system is quite easy. Imagine doing this in copper! The soldering would be a nightmare... Pex pipe is definitely a DIY'rs dream

What we did is create a shut-off for each separate line to each location. In this case we have a separate line for each of:

• Each toilet (2)
  
• Upstairs shower
• Bath Tub and Sink (for upstairs)
• Kitchen
• Downstairs shower and bathroom sink

A few tips:

1) Use ball valve with 1/4 turn shut-off. With these you can see at a glance which are on and which are off. All in the picture are in the off position. The lever is in line with the pipe in the 'on' position.

2) Use a manifold that has the right number of nipples. This one has six, which is exactly what we needed.

3) Be sure to factor in a system drain. This is the cottage after all. If you are closing down the cottage for the winter it will be hugely helpful to have an easy way to drain the system for winter. In our setup the bottom pipe provides a means (off the picture) to drain the system.

Related Posts:
4 reasons why pex is a diy plumber's dream!
Pex versus copper piping: pros & cons

;-)

Safe Water at the Cottage: Reverse Osmosis - Part 2 of 3

What is Reverse Osmosis?
Reverse osmosis (R/O) is a water treatment process in which water is forced through a semi-permeable membrane that has very small holes or "pores". Clean water passes through and impurities that are too big to pass through the membrane are left behind and flushed away.

How does Reverse Osmosis Work?
Reverse osmosis systems purify water by forcing pressurized water through a very fine, plastic membrane. If the raw water being treated comes from a well or another private source, disinfection and pre-filters (to remove chlorine and/or particulates/sediment) may be needed in advance of the R/O unit to remove contaminants that can foul or damage the membrane.

Stages of reverse osmosis:

1. During the initial filtration stage, tap water or well water (pressurized by a booster pump or pressure tank) is passed through a particle filter (a pre-filter) that removes silt, sediment, sand, and clay particles that might clog the R/O membrane.
2. The water is then forced through an activated carbon filter that traps minerals and contaminants such as chromium, mercury, copper, chloramine and pesticides. It also removes chlorine, which is important, as chlorine will shorten the life of the membrane.
3. Water is transferred under pressure into the R/O module, allowing only clean water to pass through the small pores in the membrane. Impurities unable to pass through the membrane are left behind and flushed down the drain.
4. Treated water is then sent to a storage tank.
5. Treated water is passed through an activated carbon filter before use to further improve the water's taste and smell.

Water that contains manganese, hydrogen sulphide or iron should be pre-treated to extend the life of the membrane. In fact the reverse osmosis package (system) that I purchased has 4 other filters to take out nasty stuff before it gets to the RO membrane.

Other URLs explaining Revers Osmosis:
How does Reverse Osmosis Work? (this explanation is really great!)
Reverse Osmosis Water Treatment (From the CMHC website)
What chemicals do Reverse osmosis remove?

Coming Up:
In Part 3, I show and describe my RO system

Related Posts:
Use search on the Blog and look for Reverse Osmosis
;-)

Creating Clean Water at the Cottage

Clean and drinkable water is very important!

Perhaps I went overboard but I put quite a lot of effort in to ensuring the water at the cottage is clean and drinkable.

Here you can see the first iteration of the water filtration system that I installed - starting from the left edge of the picture:

1) Pressure switch - the blue box is the pressure switch which controls the pump in the lake. It is attached to the pressure tank (not shown)

2) Two Whole House Filters - These are the two filters in the middle of the picture. The left most one uses a 30 micron filter. The right one holds a 5 micron carbon filter. The 30 micron filter is a first stage, removing the larger material from the water. The 5 micron filter has two purpsoes: a) to take out the small material that gets byt the first filter, and 2) takes out some of those nasty tastes.

3) UV Filter - This is the stainless steel filter to the right of the whole house filters. This filter uses a high powered UV light to sterilize the water as it passes by. The model used here is rated to treat the water for the whole home, eliminating 99.99% of bacteria and viruses including chlorine resistant cysts that are not tested for in routine water tests (such as Cryptosporidium
and Giardia - no beaver fever for me!).

4) PEX Manifold - This is the copper manifold on the right of the picture with all the PEX pipes connected to it. It`s purpose is to distribute the water to the various locations in the Cottage

Coming Up:
In the next few posts we will dig in to the parts of the water purification system in a bit more depth.

Products used:
Trojan UV MAX D Filter
GE Household Filters
PEX

Related Posts:

We Have Water! - Apr 28, 2009

Cottage on the Edge: Installing the Water System: Materials Purchased - Oct 03, 2008

4 Reasons Why PEX is a DIY Plumber's Dream! - Nov 04, 2008

PEX wins Hands Down! - Sep 20, 2008

;-)

We Have Water!

Over the past two weekends I completed installing all the water systems and tested it. The pump in the lake started with no problems, and other than a few loose connections there were no leaks.

I discovered that the shower faucet is not working properly so this coming weekend the task of fixing or replacing that is a high priority.

I also install a reverse osmosis filter under the kitchen sink... and it all appears to function without a problem.

I took water samples from before and after the reverse osmosis filter to test the potability of the water.

Coming Up:
In the next few posts I will explore:

• The structure of the water system I installed
• The filtering system installed
• The outcome of the water testing
  

Related Posts:
Cottage on the Edge: Installing the Water Pressure Tank
Bosch 2400ES Tankless Water Heater: Sneak Peek
Installing the Water System: Materials Purchased
Installing the Tankless Water Heater
11 Rules for Venting a Tankless Water Heater (Gas)
6 Criteria for Sellecting a Tankless Water Heater
Cottage on the Edge: PEX versus Copper Piping: Pros & Cons
5 reasons to use tankless water heaters

;-)

Green Drywall... Huh?

Yes! The drywall board in the bathroom is green.

This is a special type of drywall board which is mildew- and mold- resistant. It isn't that much more expensive and I can't think of a better way to ensure that the bathroom doesn't become a source of illness.

This is particularly important for cottages and many different guests means different styles of bathroom use. While you might always put the exhaust fan on, perhaps not everyone remembers. Moisture means mildew and other nasties.

BTW: The picture shows the wall finish over the plumbing, the copper stub-out, that was illustrated in an earlier post. (see Avoiding Freezing Pipes: Part 1 )

Related Posts:
Avoiding Frozen Pipes: Part 2 (of 2)
Heating Tip for Drywalling in the Fall & Winter
Heating Tip for Drywalling in the Fall & Winter
;-)

3 Reasons to Build your own Stub-outs

I like to build my own stub-outs.

Stub-outs are the end portions of your water supply that stick out of the wall or the floor. It is these pipes that are ultimately connected tot he faucet, toilet, etc.

While I am a DIY plumber, not a professional, I have a few reasons why I like to make my own stub outs to share:

1) One size doesn't fit all
For the most part I find the stub-outs are not long enough for my liking. I know my limitations for soldering so I just wanted a bit more copper sticking in to that vanity or base cabinet. That way I have a few more options when I come around tot he final connections. Hey I can always cut off a bit of copper - adding more length can be done bu tis a pain in the butt!


2) Make PEX connections in accessible locations.
I was just more comfortable making the transition connection between PEX pipe and copper in a location that I could easily get to later. Having it in a wall behind a vanity cabinet would mean removing the cabinet and cutting in the wall. By having the connection to the PEX in the area between the floor joists meant that I would only have to cut a hole in the ceiling below.

3) Stronger material at the rub
Being a first time user of PEX I was just a little bit concerned about places where the PEX may be subject to wear and tear - namely at the exits to various applications. So I decided to use tried and true copper in those locations

In many of the locations I could have brought the PEX pipe right to the appliance, however, I choose to error on the side of caution.

Avoiding Frozen Pipes: Part 2 (of 2)

The best way of avoiding pipes freezing is to not place pipes in exterior walls. However, it is not always possible to do that.

It the main floor basement bathroom, I was able to design the layout so that only the shower plumbing would be in an exterior wall.

In part 1 I described placing the pipes in the wall but ensuring the pipes were insulated well on the external side of the pipes. What I did not tell you that this wall was on the inside of an 8-inch thick concrete wall which was under the grade on the outside. It is a good bet that this area is well insulated.

The shower in the main, upstairs, bathroom doesn't have the same advantages. While the wall is six inches thick I decided to error on the side of caution and created another wall inside this wall in which to place the plumbing.

The picture doesn't show this well but the shower plumbing is installed inside of a second wall on the inside of the exterior wall. The wall was constructed on 2" x 4" lumber. In taking this approach the exterior wall must first be completing installed with the required vapour barrier - leaving vapour tabs on the top and sides to connect to the vapour barrier of yet to come insulation activities.

Other things to Note in the Picture:

• There are support studs at key locations: at the location where the shower head extends out of the wall and at the faucet
• The drain for the shower can be seen at the bottom of the picture - just barely
• The bottom plate of the shower is actually just leaning against the wall
  
• All the plumbing was created using copper

4 Reasons Why PEX is a DIY Plumber's Dream!

I just love PEX! PEX is truly a DIY plumber's dream!

IN the picture you can see all the plumbing to the upstairs shower. In addition to the drain you can see the hot and cold water supply.

Can you guest which is the hot water supply?

From my perspective the four reasons to use PEX are:

1) Very Inexpensive
At least inexpensive with respect to copper plumbing. I have estimated that the PEX is roughly one quarter the price of a system built with copper.

2) Easy to install
Just drill the holes in your joists, if required, thread the PEX pipe from the entry point to the appliance and your done. Be sure to follow the building code requirements for placement of holes in any joists.

3) Faster to install
Because you can bend the PEX you can create one complete length with no joints, elbows, etc. This save a lot of work, plus eliminated the nasty effort of soldering copper in tight spots.

4) Makes you look like a pro
The PEX system makes it easier to build a manifold-based system which eliminates the nasty competition for hot or cold water among two or more applications. No more scolding shower surprises when someone else turns on a faucet.

Related Posts:
Installing the Water System: Materials Purchased
PEX wins Hands Down!
PEX versus Copper Piping: Pros & Cons

8 Tips for Successful Soldering of Copper Plumbing

Soldering copper pipe is actually a simple and easy process, and can be error free if you follow so tried and true tips and trick:

1) Measure right
Be sure to measure the length of pipe needed to fit inside the joints whether it be elbows, t's, or other connectors.

2) Cut with a pipe cutter
Resist to urge to use a hack saw! Using the right pipe cutter will give a straight, clean, and burr-free cut. I like the small cutters as they are very versatile - they can be used in small spaces!

3) Clean the copper
The key to perfect solder joints is completely bare copper. Use a piece of emery paper or a cleaning tool and clean ALL the surfaces that will be soldered. This includes both the outside of the pipe and the inside of the connector piece.

Always do the finger check to make sure the area just cleaned has all the dirt removed.

4) Dry fit
Always, always dry fit your entire section of copper plumbing before soldering. This way you can find any mistakes in measuring. Plus you can plan the order of the joints to be soldered.

And last, but most important, mark the positions of the joints with a permanent marker - put a line on both parts - and long enough that subsequent steps won't obscure the mark. Often you have to take the assembly a part and solder it in sections, having it marked will make this process much easier.

5) Use a soldering flux
Soldering flux makes soldering copper a dream. It further cleans and prepares the surfaces to be soldered. The flux helps to literally suck the solder into the joint.

6) Protect the area
You are about to use a very hot flame to heat up the copper pipe, and unfortunately much of the surrounding area - studs, floor, wires, vapour barrier, etc... You simply must use a small sheet of metal to protect the surrounding area. Maybe the pros can do it without protection, but better safe than sorry.

7) Protect yourself
Things get hot when you solder, and you will if only absentmindedly reach out and want to hold a piece of copper that you just heated. The are all sorts of reasons to wear gloves - just do it. Eye protection is another big one. Melted solder can sputter - don't be dumb use eye protection!

8) Fire extinguisher
Accidents happen! Even with the best planning and protection a fire could start. Be sure to have a fire extinguisher within reach - not in the building - actually within a step or two of where you are soldering.

9) Heat evenly but focused
It is important to ensure the entire joint to be soldered gets to the right temperature. Often you will be soldering copper to brass fittings. Brass heats up much slower than copper so focus most of the flame on the brass parts.

But how do you know when it is hot enough. I am not a pro but I have notices that when the flame around the coper changes to a green colour I get the best joints. The instant it changes I remove the flame and touch the joint with the solder. The solder flows in to the joint perfectly every time!

10) Go Lead Free
With all the new products on the market there is no reason to use ANY solder with lead in it. This includes the solder flux or paste. I found some old solder in my tool box that had lead - resisted the urge to use it and off to the hazard waste depot it went!

Don't be afraid..
There is no mystic about soldering copper plumbing. Start with a few small joints, get your wings and then you will be soldering like a pro...

Installing a Shower: Part 1

We started the installation of the plumbing last weekend. The first major task was to install the waste lines. We started in the room furthest from the exit to the septic tank. This happens to be the main floor bathroom.

To get the right location for the drain from the shower, it was necessary get the base plate out of its shipping box and place it where it is to be installed.

It was actually a bit more complicated than that!

I wanted the supply lines to the shower to be well insulated. So rather than put them in the exterior wall, I created a false wall in the inside to house the supply lines tot he show tap and the shower head. When framing this false wall it is important to make sure you frame the right side area centered in the wall so that the tap and shower head are centered in the shower. BTW you can see the copper pipe for these lines leaning over the shower base.

You will notice that it was necessary to insulate and install the vapour barrier in the exterior wall PRIOR to building the false wall.

Now we placed the shower base in the proper location and drilled the hole. We drilled it a comfortable 5 inches in diameter to ensure there was plenty of play for the waste pipe as well future access for repairs and inspection.

It the picture you can see the shower base with the the waste pipe coming up through the hole.

MORE TO COME!
In upcoming posts we will be describing the installation of the shower, but first we put in the waste plumbing over the next few posts...

Installing the Water Pressure Tank

Similar to the tankless water heater we also rough-installed the pressure tank for the water system. Again this early installation was done so that the electrician would know were to install the electrical connections.

By way of describing what you are seeing in the picture, here are some features of this pressure tank.

• The tank is over sized as I am recycling a tank which I initially had up at the cottage lot when I was powering by battery-stored solar generated electricity. With an oversized tank the pump works less and hence less draw on limited electricity storage. I will be using grid power but it still means I get great capacity
• All those wires and electrical looking boxes make up the controlling system for the pump. When the pressure in the tank drops to a certain level the controller tells the pump to send more water.
• The water intake is at that short pipe (ABS) stub about center of the picture.
• In the bottom left you see the exit pipe of the waste system to the septic tank.
• We built a stand to get the tank of the floor and at a manageable working height
• The pump is in the lake so we are employing a drain back system - that is so the water doesn't freeze in the pipe in the winter. The vertical grey assembly to the left to left of the tank and attached to copper piping connecting it to the tank is used to vent the pipe during the drain back operation.
  

COMING: We will discuss in depth the water system, including the drain back system, in later posts

PEX wins Hands Down!

From my point of view PEX piping wins hands down on two accounts: Price and ease of installation.

Price:
The price of copper today is roughly $1.66 per foot compared to 35 cents per foot for PEX. That makes copper more than four times the cost of PEX pipe. I roughly need about 600 feet of PEX pipe so th cost difference is substantial. PEX ~ $250 versus Copper at $1009. That is compelling!

Ease of installation:
While I have soldered copper pipe the thought of all the cutting and soldering needed makes me shake in my boots. The installation of copper will simply take forever! So while ease of installation is easier with PEX that real benefit is much less time to install.

I start the plumbing installation over tha next few weeks - I will share my experiences - so stay tuned!

PEX versus Copper Piping: Pros & Cons

If you are like the rest of us non-plumbers then there is a good chance that you don't know which plumbing pipe is better. You may not even know what PEX pipe is.

What is PEX pipe? PEX is cross-linked polyethylene pipe. After several processes that the material must go through, it becomes durable for extreme temperatures (hot or cold), creep deformation which happens from long term exposure to stress, and chemical attack from acids, alkalis, and the like. All of this makes PEX an excellent piping substance for hot and cold water systems, especially since PEX is flexible and well adapted for temperatures below freezing all the way up to two hundred degrees Fahrenheit.

As mentioned above, PEX is a good plumbing material because it is flexible and that makes is easy to install. PEX is also resistant to breaks in cold weather, has fewer joints, and is easy to install bringing your costs down.

What about Copper? Since we all know what copper piping is because it has been around for decades, we know that the metal is durable and flexible which makes it easy to install, especially compared to iron pipes. Copper piping also provides a biostatic atmosphere making bacteria difficult to grow inside of it; an important health decision.

Copper also resists corrosion and is unaffected by ultraviolet rays, unlike PEX that cannot be used outside, so that it can be used for outside uses. However, be aware that copper can corrode of the pH of the water is too acidic or too basic for the pipes. But just because it corrodes, doesn't mean that the water is bad for you. Try to think of it like this; the Pacific Northwest region of the U.S. and, of course, Canada, has some of the best drinking water in the world but that very same water has a corrosive effect on the pipes.

Which is Better? So the choice between PEX and Cooper is solely yours, but keep in mind a few of the advantages and disadvantages of choosing which system to install into your home or business.

Some advantages for PEX are:

1. Adaptable and easy to use plumbing system.
2. Can be used with hot and cold water.
3. Can also be used with metal and PVC piping.
4. PEX has fewer fittings making it faster to install and has less of a chance to leak.
5. PEX is more burst resistant due to its flexibility to expand and contract.
6. It has a shut off valve at each supply line making it more convenient for you when you have to get repairs done.
7. PEX can be a pressure balanced system.
8. Since it is flexible, the pipes can be bent around most corners and usually won't need a coupling or fitting.

PEX has some disadvantages that you should be aware of and they are:

1. It cannot be used outside.
2. Cannot be recycled due to its shorter life use.
3. It provides an impermeable membrane that can allow the possibility of contaminating your water.
4. The pipes may be damaged if left outside for a long period of time.

The advantages of copper are:

1. Durable and flexible making it easy to install.
2. Safer in natural disasters.
3. Weather and bacteria resistant.
4. Resists corrosion, more so than other metals.
5. Unaffected by ultraviolet rays so it can be used outside.
6. Copper in a fire, does not release toxic gases because it resists burning.
7. In earthquakes, pipes flex due to being slightly elastic so that they don�t snap causing more damage.
8. Copper is recyclable making it a more sound environmental choice.

Copper piping also has disadvantages that should be considered:

1. Can corrode.
2. Has become expensive.
3. At higher levels of copper from corrosion, the water can have a metallic taste.
4. It can also freeze and break during cold water.

If cost is one factor in determining which piping system you want to install be sure to visit our post tomorrow!

5 More Rules for Installing Tankless Water Heaters

There are lots of rules - but for good reason - to keep you alive!

1. Install Heater with Lots of Elbow Room. You can place the heater in a closet but remember you need to keep it free from anything within 2 feet of the front and 1 foot on each side plus clear air above it. Not only to you not want anything flammable leaning against it you need room to service it. You should place the unit at eye level so that it is easy to service.
   
2. Use Category III Stainless Vent Pipe: Treat the exhaust pipe like any other chimney - after all it is a chimney with lots of hot exhaust gases going up it. In my opinion Z-Flex makes the best and easiest to use Cat III SS Vent Pipe.
   
3. Follow All the Rules for Black Gas Pipe installation: Key rules include: a shut off valve at each appliance, sediment trap (drip leg), do not under-size the pipe (use 3/4 inch pipe); be sure to test for leaks!; and use flex pipe to connect appliances to the black pipe (this isolates movement, hence, potential leaks).
   
4. Follow the Instructions for Connecting to the Water system: The critical things are a relief value on the hot water side of the heater and water shutoff on both sides of the heater - one for hot one for cold. Also if you are using the newer plastic pipe for your water system, you should not connect it directly to the heater - most suggest a buffer of 2-3 feet of copper pipe. You also need a drain near by where the relief valve can drain and where you can drain the water to when winterizing the cottage.
   
5. Use Clean Water: This is especially important for the Cottage. Be sure to install all your water purification systems in the line before the heater.