No More Flashlights...

Did I tell you yet how nice it is having electricity!

It is absolutely delightful!

Hydro was connected about a week ago, finally after a long wait. Now we don't need flashlights at night, and nicest of all the drone of the generator is gone. We can now enjoy the peace and quite of the cottage and outdoors.

We now have 4 outlets live: two 120-volt and two 240-volt. Here you can see on of the 120-volt outlets with a portable light plugged in.

Related Posts:

2 Early Access Requirements to Electricity - Oct 30, 2008

;-)

Drywall Tip: Greenboard for the Windows

One of the last few cleanup tasks I had on my list last weekend was to complete the finishing around the window in the basement.

It has been my experience that these windows are subject to dampness. We use the greenboard drywall in bathroom to combat this problem, so I thought why not use it in this application as well.

In the picture you can see how I used the greenboard in the trim around the window.

I am very happy with the result!

Related Posts:

Green Drywall... Huh? - Nov 16, 2008

Cottage on the Edge: Framing Windows - No need to rush the view - Jun 24, 2008

;-)

Snow and the impact on Cottage Construction

The snow, and winter is here... It is irrelevant if the season is called Fall..

This picture was actually taken two weekends ago now, so you can imagine that there is a bit more snow on the ground today. In fact I was speaking by telephone with the building inspector up at Otter Lake yesterday and he stated there was about four inches on the ground.

Outside Work is done for this Year!
Last weekend we attempted to do some work outside - it was freezing! At this time of year the snow is damp and which means your gloves become instantly wet and cold... So we did what we could to finish the decking on the front porch and then spent the rest of the time storing the construction materials and covering them.

The remainder of the exterior construction work for the deck, siding, and landscaping will now all be tasks for the Spring.

Related Posts:

Labour Day... Chill'n with a Beer on the Deck - Sep 01, 2008

;-)

We have Power!

When we drove on to the Cottage lot last weekend this was the most beautiful thing we saw...

Yes - that is a entrance mast for the electricity in the cottage.

A Load Comes off...
We have been waiting for quite some time for Hydro Québec to connect us tot he grid. In fact we were becoming a bit concerned as just about everything else left to do required heat, and for heat we needed electricity.

Pre-setup Outlets:
Our electrician set up 4 outlets for us, so that once connected we would have access to electricity immediately. He installed two 120-volt and two 240-volt outlets.

Related Posts:

Still Waiting for Hydro Québec -Nov 11, 2008

Cottage on the Edge: Waiting for Hydro Quebec -Nov 05, 2008

2 Early Access Requirements to Electricity - Oct 30, 2008

;-)

Construction Heating in the Winter

I just have to tell you how amazed I am with the construction /contractor heater I purchased at Princess Auto.

This little electric heater may be small but it punches a big punch when it comes to making heat! It is under a foot square, but is able to heat the entire cottage. The heater is of course a 220-volt heater, so we needed to connect it to the dryer outlet.

I keep the heater set at about 3/4 on the thermostat and it has kept the cottage at a very comfortable temperature for the past week.

Why the Heater?
Well it is approaching winter here an it is nice to work in the warmth - but the big reason is that we are about to have the drywall taped and plastered, and that can not be done in the cold.

Coming Up:
Over the month of December, yes December, we are hoping to complete the drywall, install the electrical fixtures, the laminate floor, kitchen, and bathroom.

Related Posts:

Heating Tip for Drywalling in the Fall & Winter -Oct 27, 2008

;-)

The Cottage: Finished for the Winter

I mentioned in a previous post that we are done for the winter.

While construction continues inside, and very soon that will be complete, there is a bunch we did not get complete outside before the snow started to fly.

This picture was taken about two weeks ago and already there was snow falling - you can see some on the roof.

Coming Up:
From the angle it is clear that a number of things will need to be completed next year including: the deck and finishing of the posts/railings and beams; the siding under the deck and on the lakeside of the cottage, and the landscaping.

Related Posts:

;-)

Drywall Installation: First Stage is complete!

We we up on the weekend to pay the drywall contractor for the first stage of his work - the installation of the drywall board.

It was a great feeling and a sense of another milestone passing - that is having the drywall installed. Even though it was not yet finished - no taping or plastering yet - we got a a first real sense of what the interior of the cottage would look and feel like.

It the picture is my lovely wife, and work crew member, Lucie. As you can see the drywall is up but the waste is still piled higher and deeper...

Coming Up:
I have been playing around with he video function on my camera, so I hope to have a video of the cottage in an upcoming post.

Related Posts:

A Drywall - Plumbing Catch-22 -Nov 19, 2008

Types and Sizes of Drywall -Nov 18, 2008

Drywall is installed - Well Almost -Nov 17, 2008

Green Drywall... Huh? -Nov 16, 2008

Heating Tip for Drywalling in the Fall & Winter - Oct 27, 2008
Cottage on the Edge: Stairs make the Cottage feel more Complete - Sep 29, 2008

;-)

5 Tips on installing a Wood Stove Chimney

Two weekends ago we installed the chimney and wood stove, and fired up the wood stove. Not a moment too soon as it was FREEZING that weekend - both wet and cold.

Fortunately, we got a break in the rainy weather long enough to install all the exterior elements of the chimney.

Here are some tips to a safe and secure chimney installation experience:

1) The Right Height
In most jurisdictions the chimney must be at least two feet higher than any part of the roof within 10 feet (Horizontally).

2) Secure it
If the chimney is going to be over 4 feet high secure it with braces. The brace needs to be at least 2/3 the way up the chimney.

3) Weatherize it
Make sure you install the roof flashing and caulk it properly, install the storm collar and have a chimney cap.

4) Be Safe - Burning
Be sure your chimney cap has a spark arresting screen.

5) Be Safe - Installing
Above all be sure to be safe when installing. We used a safety harness for everyone who was up on the roof. Be sure to secure the roof for the harness both on the opposing side of the roof to a solid structure that can hold a multiple of the weight of the user AND that the rope is secure from rolling off the roof.

Related Posts:
Installing the Wood Stove Chimney

;-)

3 Reasons to Use Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing (CSST)

We roughed in the propane gas line the previous weekend. This was necessary so that we could frame and drywall the ceiling bulkhead in the basement.

We used corrugated stainless steel tubing (CSST).

We love the tubing because:

1) Easier to route
The tubing is reasonably flexible, so running the tubing through walls and the bulkhead was very eaily

2) Fewer Connections
Because it is flexible you can make tight turns. We actually have only two connections and those are the ones on either end: 1) the one shown in the picture - which is the external connection, and 2) the second connection will be to the appliance itself.

3) No Special Tools Required
We required no special tools. The connectors art each end are attached easily with just two pipe wrenches.

To find more about corrugated stainless steel pipe here are a few links:

• www.gastite.com - a manufacture of CSST
• Installation Guide from Gastite
• An alternative to traditional threaded black-iron gas piping
• Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing: A Good Choice for the Short Run

Future Posts:
I future posts I will be exploring my travels with installing the gas line and its connection to the tankless water heater.

Related Posts:
11 Rules for Venting a Tankless Water Heater (Gas)
Installing the Tankless Water Heater

;-)

Ahhhhhh! Heat: Installing the WoodStove

It has been getting rather chilly lately, so getting the wood stove has been a priority.

We temporarily installed the chimney taking all precautions to protect the floor with a steel plate. Just in case we also have the fire extinguisher close at hand.

The warmth has been very welcome as the temperature in Eastern Quebec has been dropping to near freezing now. With no electricity yet, except for the generator, the warmth of the wood stove has been great.

Once the drywall has been installed, primed and painted then we will install the laminate floor. We will then re-install the wood stove.

I'll discuss the installation ins & outs then...

Related Posts:
Installing the Wood Stove Chimney

;-)

Disabled-Persons Modifications

My Mother had a stroke, and hence, has difficult maneuvering around a toilet like many disabled persons.

Knowing that I would be installing a assisting bar on the wall beside the toilet, I installed extra wood supports between the wall studs. Now when I come to install the bar I will be assured there is plenty of support to screw into.

In the picture, just below and above the wire, I installed a 2x10 block in the two stud spaces beside the toilet.

This is only one of several modification for the disabled I will be adding to the construction considerations. The key is to think through the disabled person's needs and build in the necessary modifications during the construction. It is often more difficult, sometime imposable to may the changes afterwards.

In this case installing the supports before the drywall makes the a lot easier, and eliminates the guess work of where the studs are later.

Related Posts:

;-)

Installing a Dryer Vent - Thinking Ahead

We will have a clothes dryer - eventually.

So it was necessary to think ahead and install the vent, as we wished to drywall the ceiling in the laundry room. It was a relatively easy task, given the ceiling and joist space were still open. Doing it later would have surely been a nightmare.

Not sure what the dryer nor what vent opening would be I opted for an nice large 5-inch vent pipe. If the exhaust from the dryer is smaller I can always get an reducer pipe.

Related Posts:

;-)

3 Tips for Creating Ceiling Bulkheads

I have to say I am rather proud of my ceiling bulkhead in the basement ceiling.

Because the main waste pipe runs the whole length of the cottage, it gets quite low at one end. That is because a minimum 1/4-inch drop per each 1-foot of run is required to achieve the right slope of the waste pipe. Over 20 feet of run means a drop of five inches . Given that the waste pipe is already almost 5 inches in diameter, the bulkhead needs to be over 10 inches at the low end.

This means that the bulkhead would be below the height of one of the bedroom doors. Fortunately I was able to slope the bulkhead and hence avoid installing an extra short door.

A few tips:

1) Place your Wires and Pipes away from danger
The bulkhead is used to hide the pipes and wires, but it also hides their location. In the future you will not know where they are. Place your pipes and wires at lease 1.5 inches from the walls and bottom of the bulkhead to keep them from penetrating nails and screws.

2) Protect the wires and plumbing
Sometimes it is just not possible to place the wires and pipes out of nails reach. When that is the case use strategically placed steel plates to protect them. These plates stop nails from penetrating into wires and pipes.

3) Install Access Panels
Make sure to install access panels so that you can get at sensitive areas in the future. Panels should be placed anywhere where:

• You might need to drain a pipe to prepare for winter
• There is a valve, water gas or otherwise.

Related Posts:

;-)

A Drywall - Plumbing Catch-22

I have a bit of a catch-22 problem...

I can't drywall the bulkhead under the bathroom, or specifically the tub, until I connect the tub, because I need access to connect up the exposed supply lines.

I can't install the exposed supply lines to the tub, until the drywall is complete in the bathroom so that I can install the floor covering.

What we can agreed to do is precut the piece for the opening in the bulkhead which I can install myself latter.

I still will have to install a access hatch for future winterizing access, however while big enough for doing the winterization, it will be way too small to do the plumbing connections.

Types and Sizes of Drywall

We used two types of drywall, two different thicknesses and over four different sixes of drywall in our Cottage.

Types of Drywall
We used mostly the normal type of drywall throughout the Cottage but used a moisture resistant drywall in both bathrooms. Called Greenboard, this drywall contains an oil-based additive in the green colored paper covering that provides moisture resistance. It is commonly used in washrooms and other areas expected to experience elevated levels of humidity.

There is also a form of cement-based drywall that is also used in bathrooms - mostly where shower enclosures are being tiled. Called cement backerboard, which is more water-resistant than greenboard, for use in showers or sauna rooms, and as a base for ceramic tile. We are using a pre-manufactured shower enclosure so the concrete drywall board is not required.

Thickness of Drywall
The standard, most used thickness of drywall is one-half (1/2) inch. All of the drywall in the Cottage is 1/2-inch except for the ceiling in the main floor.

The ceiling joists in the main floor ceiling are on 24-inch centers, hence, a thicker drywall is required to prevent the sagging of the drywall under the weight of the insulation and assisted by any moisture.

The alternate means to drywall ceilings is to use a 3-inch strapping on 16-inch centers on which the normal 1/2-inch thickness can be used. Truth be told, if I was to do it again, I would likely take this approach.

Width of Drywall
The standard width of a sheet of drywall is 48 inches. This is the width we used everywhere except on the walls in the main floor.

The wall height of the mail floor is nine feet, hence, the normal width of drywall would mean a one-foot piece of drywall would have to be used. The industry has solved this problem by creating a drywall version that is 54-inches wide.

Length of Drywall
The holy grail of drywall is to create a few a seams or joints as possible. Hence if you can use a piece of drywall that spans the entire length of a wall then there are no joins mid-wall. For his reason drywall comes in 8-foot, 10-foot and 12-foot lenghts, and we used all three lengths in the Cottage.

Hanging Drywall
Generally drywall is hung horizontally. This appears to create the fewest joints and creates joints that are not a visible to the eye. In the picture above the drywall is hung horizontally while it is vertical in the picture to the right.

Links to How to Guides:
How to Install and Finish Gypsum Panels
Drywall: Pro Tips for Hanging and Finishing
Drywall How To Manual
Housebuilders Drywall 01
YOUR ONLINE DRYWALL MANUAL

Related Posts:
Heating Tip for Drywalling in the Fall & Winter

;-)

Drywall is installed - Well Almost

When we arrived this past weekend, about two-thirds of the drywall board had been installed.

In terms of progress, all of the drywall in the basement was completed and all of the ceiling on the main floor. Left to complete is the majority of the walls on the main floor.

It was a mental milestone - seeing the drywall it -- as previously we were seeing a wide open space. Even with the walls framed you still just don't get the feeling of rooms yet...

Here you see the doors leading to the two bedrooms in the basement.

Next:
In the next post we will discuss the different types of drywall and there various merits.

Related Posts:

;-)

Green Drywall... Huh?

Yes! The drywall board in the bathroom is green.

This is a special type of drywall board which is mildew- and mold- resistant. It isn't that much more expensive and I can't think of a better way to ensure that the bathroom doesn't become a source of illness.

This is particularly important for cottages and many different guests means different styles of bathroom use. While you might always put the exhaust fan on, perhaps not everyone remembers. Moisture means mildew and other nasties.

BTW: The picture shows the wall finish over the plumbing, the copper stub-out, that was illustrated in an earlier post. (see Avoiding Freezing Pipes: Part 1 )

Related Posts:
Avoiding Frozen Pipes: Part 2 (of 2)
Heating Tip for Drywalling in the Fall & Winter
Heating Tip for Drywalling in the Fall & Winter
;-)

4 Tips for Keeping it Dry

I learned a hard lesson!

I thought be throwing a tarp of it my boxes of siding material would be kept dry. I forgot that the boxes were lying on the ground. Consequently all the boxes were wet - some so wet that they fell apart.

So we moved the siding material up on the deck for the winter and placed the tarp over them.

I have been careful in placing all my wood deliveries, by placing them all on waste wood so that they were off the ground. My my mind must have been turned off the day that the siding arrived.

So some tips:

1) Keep it off the ground
Often the material will already be on a pallet or delivered on 4x4 support boards. Ask to keep them - and use them to place under your materials.

2) Use lots of support
Be sure to put plenty of support under your materials. Every 2 feet if you have enough waste lumber.

3) For loose materials - create a platform
My big mistake with the siding material was not using the scrap 4' x 8' material I had to support the boxes - and I had quite a few of them. This way the boxes of siding would have been protected from water seeping up from underneath.

4) Use a big enough tarp
I fortunately purchased a number of tarps of different sizes knowing that I would not be using the materials as fast as it arrived. If any of the lumber and other material stick up they will just wick water under the tarp.

Another reason to cover your material, even the lumber, is to prevent warping. If the wood drys out in the summer sun it will likely warp. Warped lumber is a pain to work with. Keeping it covered slows the drying process, and keep the lumber straight.

A NEAT STACKING TIP:
One of the yard workers at Dale's lumber yard shared with me a neat trick. If you have say a large number of sticks of lumber, say fifty 2" x 6" by 10', laid out in a stack 5 deep by 10 across, it is better to take the lumber as you use it in a vertical fashion. That way the lumber stays straighter.

Related Posts:
5 Tips to creating a Great Retaining Wall
framing the basement... status
;-)

Adding to the Wood Pile - Do's and Don't for what you can/should burn

We did a massive clean up at the Cottage this past weekend. I borrowed my brother-in-laws trailer, and it is a big one - it can hold a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood flat in the bed! We made five trips to the local civic dump, and each load was overflowing.

It is amazing how much construction waste accumulated over the summer. Anyway my wife is a bit of a neat freak and we spent the entire day on Saturday either loading the trailer with waste or stacking materials we were storing for later use.

The picture is actually of our firewood pile but it is obscured by the wood construction waste that we have piled in front of it for future use. That means sometime next year I am chopping up and otherwise stacking it in the firewood pile. Ignoring the BBQ and the wheelbarrow you should be able to just see a number of pallets, and a pile of cut ends of the framing lumber.

The plan is to build a firewood shed next spring to keep all this and more firewood out of the weather and drying nicely. We have a wood stove and plenty of firewood still standing on the lot so that is likely to be one of those never ending tasks...

Back to the Garbage Issue:
As I mentioned we took five loads to the dump. We took a load of roof single waste, drywall waste, siding waste, lots of cardboard waste - most of it dreadfully wet, and piles of end cuts of pressure-treated wood and plywood. We carefully sorted all these materials because on arrival at the dump we were instructed to place each in a separate pile.

The day started out as a wet one, as it near poured rain in the morning. Fortunately it cleared up in the afternoon and the sun actually came out. It was at first miserable work but turned out to be a nice day - doubly so as the Cottage lot became preceptively clean and tidy.

We are now set for winter, with the construction waste gone and the remainder of our construction materials neatly stacked and covered for the winter.

There are a few tips for keeping and storing at the dump - the bottom line is burn only safe materals:

Do Not burn any of the following:

• Pressure-treated wood
• Plywood, or for that matter any engineered wood products
• Plastic, Styrofoam

All of these materials give off toxic gases and they can damage your wood stove.

Related Posts:
Installing the Wood stove Chimney
;-)

Refinishing the Muskoka Chairs

I have two old Muskoka chairs which I just love. They are comfortable and represent the pinnacle of laid-back cottage relaxing. Plus my sons gave them to me over 10 years ago for my birthday.

Sadly I didn't treat them very well up at the Cottage lot. I left them in the shade and didn't protect them from the weather for the winters. Plus I didn't varnish them very well.

Fortunately they have come through this mistreatment well. Although the finish is ugly with peeling varnish and stained wood, the underlying structure is sound.

One of my tasks once the Cottage gets built, so that means late next sumer is to refinish the chairs. I can almost feel myself in them already with a cold one in hand.

I will definitely share with you how the job comes along.

Are there any readers that have tips on refinishing?

Future BBQ & Smoker

My son has his eye on two 40-gallon drums I have.

He wishes to build a big barbecue with one and a smoker with the other. I guess he has visions of BBQing a pig or someth'n!

How I came to get the drums is an interesting story, but that is for another time. Indicate your interest in the whole story in a comment -- and I will share the story in a future post.

I used them to assist me in retrieving snow machines and outboard motor out of lakes when I was younger, much younger actually and a serious SCUBA diver. They worked quite well. I would sink them to the site, attached them and them fill them with air.

Next summer I will share with you how the BBQ building comes along...
;-)

Still Waiting for Hydro Québec

We are in danger of falling even further behind on the building schedule because Hydro Québec has not been able to connect us.

Each weekend when we drive up, the first thing I do when we turn the corner on to the lot is to look up to the hydro pole for new wires. Alas this weekend there still were no wires.

There is some hope! I called customer support last week and apparently the estimator was up two Thursday's ago to determine what work is required. Apparently a new transformer is required.

Anyway... December 2nd is the deadline by which they said we would be connected.

Gee! I hope it is sooner, because pretty much everything left do do required heat, and heat requires electricity...

Related Posts:
2 Early Access Requirements to Electricity
3 Tips for Communicating with Your Electrician
Electrical, Plumbing, Insulation: Great Progress Made!
;-)

3 Reasons to Build your own Stub-outs

I like to build my own stub-outs.

Stub-outs are the end portions of your water supply that stick out of the wall or the floor. It is these pipes that are ultimately connected tot he faucet, toilet, etc.

While I am a DIY plumber, not a professional, I have a few reasons why I like to make my own stub outs to share:

1) One size doesn't fit all
For the most part I find the stub-outs are not long enough for my liking. I know my limitations for soldering so I just wanted a bit more copper sticking in to that vanity or base cabinet. That way I have a few more options when I come around tot he final connections. Hey I can always cut off a bit of copper - adding more length can be done bu tis a pain in the butt!


2) Make PEX connections in accessible locations.
I was just more comfortable making the transition connection between PEX pipe and copper in a location that I could easily get to later. Having it in a wall behind a vanity cabinet would mean removing the cabinet and cutting in the wall. By having the connection to the PEX in the area between the floor joists meant that I would only have to cut a hole in the ceiling below.

3) Stronger material at the rub
Being a first time user of PEX I was just a little bit concerned about places where the PEX may be subject to wear and tear - namely at the exits to various applications. So I decided to use tried and true copper in those locations

In many of the locations I could have brought the PEX pipe right to the appliance, however, I choose to error on the side of caution.

Avoiding Frozen Pipes: Part 2 (of 2)

The best way of avoiding pipes freezing is to not place pipes in exterior walls. However, it is not always possible to do that.

It the main floor basement bathroom, I was able to design the layout so that only the shower plumbing would be in an exterior wall.

In part 1 I described placing the pipes in the wall but ensuring the pipes were insulated well on the external side of the pipes. What I did not tell you that this wall was on the inside of an 8-inch thick concrete wall which was under the grade on the outside. It is a good bet that this area is well insulated.

The shower in the main, upstairs, bathroom doesn't have the same advantages. While the wall is six inches thick I decided to error on the side of caution and created another wall inside this wall in which to place the plumbing.

The picture doesn't show this well but the shower plumbing is installed inside of a second wall on the inside of the exterior wall. The wall was constructed on 2" x 4" lumber. In taking this approach the exterior wall must first be completing installed with the required vapour barrier - leaving vapour tabs on the top and sides to connect to the vapour barrier of yet to come insulation activities.

Other things to Note in the Picture:

• There are support studs at key locations: at the location where the shower head extends out of the wall and at the faucet
• The drain for the shower can be seen at the bottom of the picture - just barely
• The bottom plate of the shower is actually just leaning against the wall
  
• All the plumbing was created using copper

Avoiding Freezing Pipes: Part 1

The best way of avoiding pipes freezing is to not place pipes in exterior walls. However, it is not always possible to do that.

It the basement bathroom, I was able to design the layout so that the shower and vanity plumbing would be in interior walls. Only the cold water supply tot he toilet need to be installed in the wall.

While the pipe needs to be installed in the center of the stud wall you need to place All of the insulation BEHIND the pipe. It the picture to the right you can see that this rule was followed in only two of the three stud openings. This was an error that was quickly fixed before the vapour barrier was stapled on.

Other things to Note in the Picture:

• We used white/grey PEX for all the cold water supply
• The drain for the toilet is in the bottom right corner of the picture
• We created our own stub-outs using 1/2-inch coper pipe
  

NEXT In Part 1:
Tomorrow I will discuss the second option for insulating pipes in exterior walls - creating a wall inside a wall...

Securing PEX Pipe

Installing PEX pipe is quite easy. The key is the use of PEX pipe clips.

The clips allow the ordering positioning of the pipes, and keeping then out of the reach of nails. It in this picture I have secured the PEX on the main beam supporting the floor above.

There needs to be a bulkhead built to surround the beam so it is the perfect location to attach an run pipes. I was fortunate in that there was a wall to one side of the beam just about 2 feet away. This provided the perfect zone to run and protect all the sensitive parts of the water system including the drain pipes.

A key location for securing with clips is where a PEX pipe makes a change in direction - like when the pipe is making a 90-degree turn and going from a slot between two joists to a bulkhead area as in the picture. There is a bit of stress and this location so securing before and after the 'turn' ensures that the PEX will stay where you want it to.

In this picture you see the grouping of the PEX pipe runs for the bathroom applications including the shower, the bath tub and the vanity sink - 3 hot and 3 cold water runs. There is not particular order, I just placed them as I install them.

Related Posts:
Installing the Water System: Materials Purchased
PEX wins Hands Down!
PEX versus Copper Piping: Pros & Cons

PEX Tips: 3 Ways to Manage Expansion Considerations

PEX is affected dramatically by the temperature of the water flowing through it. It can expand something like a quarter inch for every foot of length for each rise of 10 degrees. So you can see if you have a long run the expansion and contraction can be very dramatic - measuring in feet.

There are three ways to manage the expansion in PEX pipe:

1) Create lots of slack
The way to manage this expansion in PEX pipe length is to create adequate slack in your lines. This is generally accomplished by placing a loop in the line as shown in the picture.

2) Make big enough holes
Most of the PEX you will likely be using will be 1/2-inch so make your holes at least 3/4-inch in your joists and studs. That way the PEX pipe can easily move when it expands and contracts. An added bonus is that a bigger hole makes it easier to install as well.

3) Use bigger clips
I like to use the 3/4-inch clips to secure the 1/2-inch PEX pipe. It keeps the pipe in place but also allows free movement through the clip for expansion and contraction. Plus if you are like me I do not quite get the position right and a looser clip makes it easier to make adjustments.

BTW: I found the exact-fit clips, that would be 1/2-inch for 1/2 pipe, tend to scratch the pipe if you try to move the pipe through the clip. This is not a good thing as it is creating a potential weakness in the pipe that could leak latter.

Related Posts:
Installing the Water System: Materials Purchased
PEX wins Hands Down!
PEX versus Copper Piping: Pros & Cons

Waiting for Hydro Quebec

The Cottage is looking more and more complete on the outside.

This a picture that was actually taken two weekends ago. At that time:

• All the electrical was installed inside the Cottage, and the service mast stands ready for connection to the power Grid.
• I began the installation of the tankless water heater - you can see the air intake mid way on the front of the cottage.
  

While not shown in the older picture here, we are to weekends latter and still waiting for Hydro Québec but we have accomplished more:

• The exhaust for the tankless water heater has been installed
• The exhaust for the future clothes dryer has been installed
• A 1-inch corrugated stainless steel tube has been installed, and the external connection put in place and capped off.
• The external part of the chimney has been installed
• The cedar decking for the side and back decks have been installed
  

Did I say we are still waiting on Hydro Québec to connect us?

4 Reasons Why PEX is a DIY Plumber's Dream!

I just love PEX! PEX is truly a DIY plumber's dream!

IN the picture you can see all the plumbing to the upstairs shower. In addition to the drain you can see the hot and cold water supply.

Can you guest which is the hot water supply?

From my perspective the four reasons to use PEX are:

1) Very Inexpensive
At least inexpensive with respect to copper plumbing. I have estimated that the PEX is roughly one quarter the price of a system built with copper.

2) Easy to install
Just drill the holes in your joists, if required, thread the PEX pipe from the entry point to the appliance and your done. Be sure to follow the building code requirements for placement of holes in any joists.

3) Faster to install
Because you can bend the PEX you can create one complete length with no joints, elbows, etc. This save a lot of work, plus eliminated the nasty effort of soldering copper in tight spots.

4) Makes you look like a pro
The PEX system makes it easier to build a manifold-based system which eliminates the nasty competition for hot or cold water among two or more applications. No more scolding shower surprises when someone else turns on a faucet.

Related Posts:
Installing the Water System: Materials Purchased
PEX wins Hands Down!
PEX versus Copper Piping: Pros & Cons

2 + 3 Tips for Selecting a Good Exhaust Vent

Vents provide a hole for air to be pushed out of the house or cottage. They can also allow unwanted critters to come-on-in...

There are a few tips on selecting a vent to avoid unwanted guests:

1) A self closing flapper
Pick a vent that has a 'flapper' that open when you vent is on but closes when the 'air' is off.

2) Screen
To add to the critter protection get a vent with a screen, but a screen of the right gauge to keep out the critters but also let out the unwanted lint that may collect on a fine mesh screen.

Plus there are a few attributes that just make a better vent

3) Rust Resistant
May sure the vent has either a powder-coated paint or is made of rust resistant material like stainless steel or plastic. I would avoid galvanized and eventually these always seem the rust eventually.

4) Large Opening
The whole idea is to vent your moist air as fast and efficiently as possible. a small opening impedes this.

5) Strong Materials
Being on the exterior the vent is likely to take abuse. Weather it be the weather or branches or humans, it will be hit. make sure it is of a materials that will withstand some abuse. That is why I like metal vents over plastic - plastic gets brittle, especially in the winter

Related Posts:
Installing the Bathroom Exhaust Vents
4 Tips for Installing Exhaust Vents

4 Tips for Intalling Exhaust Vents

Exhaust vents are more likely than not to be in locations that are difficult to service: high up and in tight locations. Furthermore the inside portion is often covered by walls and ceilings. So it pays to install it right the first time.

The following tips are specifically for air vents like those of bathroom and dryer air vents. exhaust vents for the exhaust of hot gases from water heaters and such require additional precautions.

Here are three tips:

1) Cut the Right Size Hole
Cut a hole just big enough for the vent pipe. This save effort on securing and weatherizing later...

2) Secure it well
Secure it from the outside with four screws that bite into solid wood underneath the siding or other exterior finishes. Be sure to use stainless steel screws to avoid those ugly rust marks.

3) Weatherproof it
This involves caulking on the outside and insulation on the inside. When caulking on the outside be sure to out a bead of caulk on the inside of the flange that will go against the wall, AND then caulk around the edge of the flange as well.

Spray foam insulation is the easiest and best form of insulating the hole on the inside.

4) Don't go Cheap
The best insurance policy against having to prematurely replace the vent is to get one of good quality. Our next post will explore the key attributes to look for. Saving $5 only to replace the vent in a year or two just doesn't make sense.

Related posts:
Installing the Bathroom Exhaust Vents

Installing the Bathroom Exhaust Vents

A couple of weekends back I installed the vents for the exhaust for the bathroom vents.

The one for the basement bathroom exists just under the gazebo deck. The main bathroom vent exists out the side of the cottage.

Each location presented different challenges.

The basement bathroom vent posed a position challenge. The hole needed to be positioned so that the vent would fit between the two joists of the deck on the outside and between two floor joist on the inside. Fortunately it worked out! Cutting the hole was a bit tricky. I ended up drilling a center hole from the inside and then using this to measure a circle on the outside. I didn't have a 3-inch hole saw, (or one 3.5" so there would be some play) so I drilled a series of close 3/8" holes around the circle and then used a reciprocating saw to cut between the holes.

The main bathroom vent was routed through the attic and out the side of the attic wall. The key trick here was to ensure the exhaust pipe was sufficiently high enough to clear all the insulation that would be eventually place between and on the ceiling joists. Again without a large enough hole saw I drilled small holes along the circle and then cut the hole out with a reciprocating saw.

Future Posts:
In the next two posts I will discuss tips for selecting a good vent and tips for installation