Cottage on the Edge - For Rent...: October 2008

Plumbing Tip: Don't Mix Pipe Types

Way back before we poured the basement floor I installed the waste plumbing (see previous post1, post 2). I used PVC pipe (the white stuff) , primarily 4-inch pipe but also some 3-inch pipe. The process went great!

Little did I know I was setting myself up for some headache!

Then comes the time to install all the waste and vent pipe above the concrete floor. This is where I intended to use ABS pipe (the black stuff). At the time I knew that while the inside diameters (ID) were the same, the outside diameters (OD) were different. I naively assumed that there would be plenty of connectors that would span this change in size.

It was in fact a difficult task to find connectors to attached PVC to ABS. As this picture shows I was eventually able to use a PVC coupler to attach PVC-ABS coupling to a short piece of ABS and then to the ABS Y connector. It would have been nice to have a connector that went directly - if there is one I couldn't fine one...

Lesson Learned: Stick to one type of pipe!

Related Posts:
Houston, We have a Concrete basement Floor...
How to make Sh#t Flow Up Hill!

2 Early Access Requirements to Electricity

We use a generator for all our electricity requirements, however, I am looking forward to finally getting connected to the grid.

The now insulated cottage provides some damping of the noise of the generator, but the constant drone all day of the generator is becoming a bit much. It would be nice to get some of that peace and quiet that we are looking forward to at the Cottage.

The Cottage is actually wired... so we are just waiting for Hydro Québec to connect us up!

The electrician did set us up so that as soon as we are connected we have access to power. He provided the following:

1) Two 110 volt outlets
He provided outlet on the main floor and one in the basement. As soon as we are connected these will be live and we will no longer require the generator. The picture illustrates the outlet in the kitchen area that he made available. There is no cover plate but in fine construction mode he just electrical taped on all the exposed wires and connections. I guess it isn't a great approach to get your client electrocuted!

2) Two 240 volt outlets
As mentioned in an earlier post, our electrician has set up the stove and the dryer outlets so that we can use them to connect a hydro heater.

Getting Concerned...
We are getting very close to the point where all work inside the Cottage will stop if we don't have electricity. The drywall contractor starts this week. While they can install the drywall on the walls and ceiling, they can't do any of the taping and mud if we can't raise the temperature. It has been almost month since the electrical has been put in so we are hoping it happens soon.

The Reason Why...

When every hour on the weekend, and many free moments during the week are consumed by either building or thinking about building, it is often easy to forget the reason why we are building the Cottage.

The simple reason is Nature!

...and with nature comes a whole bunch of great things: peace... and quiet, time to unwind, fresh air, sun, a sky so clear you can see to the next galaxy at night, a place to chill with friends and family where there is no urgent thing to do, and most of all a place to get away from it all.

This little feller, the chipmunk, is quite brazen - he sees a free lunch ticket when he sees one.

Heating Tip for Drywalling in the Fall & Winter

Drywalling and cold just don't work well together!

Not only does the drywall mud not dry well - it is more likely to freeze - it is downright unpleasant to work in the cold.

...and it is starting to get nippy now in Western Québec!

So I had the electrician install two temporary 240 volt outlets, one in the basement and one on the main floor, so that we could power a construction grade hydro heater.

It was actually an easy thing for him to do since he just connected off the stove outlet in the kitchen (seen in the picture) and connected a second in the basement off the dryer outlet.

Now if we could only get Hydro Québec to get in to connect us up to the grid...

Installing a Cottage Kitchen

Sorry for the teaser... ;-)

Last weekend I had to bring up the kitchen cupboards that I purchased from IKEA. I had to retrieve them from the IKEA warehouse or they were going to start to charge me storage fees. You can see all the boxes in the picture...

So now we have them underfoot as we install the ceiling insulation, the drywall, the laminate floor, etc...

I used the IKEA kitchen stuff in the last kitchen renovation I did. I just love the stuff. It assembles well, is strong and has a really easy means to hang the wall and base cabinets that makes it really practical for a DIY operation.

Future Posts
Anyway I will be posting my experiences in about a month when the kitchen cabinets will be installed.

5 Tips to creating a Great Retaining Wall

Being the Cottage on the Edge, we have some steep issues to deal with...

On the lakeside of the cottage the grade drops very rapidly. Over the summer the rain demonstrated that there will be a erosion problem. I was concerned that waiting to deal with the erosion issues until next year would be a big mistake when the spring run-off comes. So we decided that it had to be fixed ASAP.

The way to fix the problem is to install a retaining wall or a few... to shore up the slope.

The issue was how to do that when there is still a lot of work in the Cottage? When my eldest son is a landscaper -- and he agreed to take on the task -- allowing me to continue working on the Cottage plumbing and insulation.

Last week end, he and my youngest son started the work. Here is a few tips he has learned to ensure a solid retaining wall:

1) Maximum of 7 courses of retaining wall material

Seven courses of retaining wall material, we used 4" x 4" pressure treated posts, will give about 2.5 feet of retaining wall. Any higher and the pressures of the soil behind tend to push the wall. Egin, my son, says going to 9 might be ok.

I was ready to order him 16 foot lentghs of the PT posts, however, he insisted on 10-foot lengths. Through experience he found that he never uses anything much longer even when the wall itself is much longer as he ends up cutting the posts to insert the tie backs anyway.

Each course is nailed to the one below it with 8-inch galvanized spikes.

2) Install drainage

Another trick to reducing the hydrostatic pressure against the retaining wall is to provide a means for the water to drain away easily. He always places weeping tile at the foot of his retaining walls. It also helps in avoiding washouts in the spring and in heavy rainfall.

3) Install bracing

The picture illustrates the construction of tie-back bracing for the wall. This ties the retaining wall right into the soil behind it. The weight of the soil itself holds back the weight against the wall. It is a simple 'T' structure, with the 'T' about 6 feet in the soil.

4) Anchor the bottom course

Another trick is to tie the bottom course into the soil below it by driving 1/2-inch rebar thought the post and into the soil. Egin uses 4-foot lengths of rebar, driven in every 4-feet.

5) Keep it level

Not only is it more aesthetically pleasing but the pressures along the retaining wall will be equalized.

Future Posts:
Egin will be completing this retaining wall over the upcoming weekend, but will also over the course of the fall and next spring be installing more landscaping options. We will post our observation on all of them.

8 Tips for Successful Soldering of Copper Plumbing

Soldering copper pipe is actually a simple and easy process, and can be error free if you follow so tried and true tips and trick:

1) Measure right
Be sure to measure the length of pipe needed to fit inside the joints whether it be elbows, t's, or other connectors.

2) Cut with a pipe cutter
Resist to urge to use a hack saw! Using the right pipe cutter will give a straight, clean, and burr-free cut. I like the small cutters as they are very versatile - they can be used in small spaces!

3) Clean the copper
The key to perfect solder joints is completely bare copper. Use a piece of emery paper or a cleaning tool and clean ALL the surfaces that will be soldered. This includes both the outside of the pipe and the inside of the connector piece.

Always do the finger check to make sure the area just cleaned has all the dirt removed.

4) Dry fit
Always, always dry fit your entire section of copper plumbing before soldering. This way you can find any mistakes in measuring. Plus you can plan the order of the joints to be soldered.

And last, but most important, mark the positions of the joints with a permanent marker - put a line on both parts - and long enough that subsequent steps won't obscure the mark. Often you have to take the assembly a part and solder it in sections, having it marked will make this process much easier.

5) Use a soldering flux
Soldering flux makes soldering copper a dream. It further cleans and prepares the surfaces to be soldered. The flux helps to literally suck the solder into the joint.

6) Protect the area
You are about to use a very hot flame to heat up the copper pipe, and unfortunately much of the surrounding area - studs, floor, wires, vapour barrier, etc... You simply must use a small sheet of metal to protect the surrounding area. Maybe the pros can do it without protection, but better safe than sorry.

7) Protect yourself
Things get hot when you solder, and you will if only absentmindedly reach out and want to hold a piece of copper that you just heated. The are all sorts of reasons to wear gloves - just do it. Eye protection is another big one. Melted solder can sputter - don't be dumb use eye protection!

8) Fire extinguisher
Accidents happen! Even with the best planning and protection a fire could start. Be sure to have a fire extinguisher within reach - not in the building - actually within a step or two of where you are soldering.

9) Heat evenly but focused
It is important to ensure the entire joint to be soldered gets to the right temperature. Often you will be soldering copper to brass fittings. Brass heats up much slower than copper so focus most of the flame on the brass parts.

But how do you know when it is hot enough. I am not a pro but I have notices that when the flame around the coper changes to a green colour I get the best joints. The instant it changes I remove the flame and touch the joint with the solder. The solder flows in to the joint perfectly every time!

10) Go Lead Free
With all the new products on the market there is no reason to use ANY solder with lead in it. This includes the solder flux or paste. I found some old solder in my tool box that had lead - resisted the urge to use it and off to the hazard waste depot it went!

Don't be afraid..
There is no mystic about soldering copper plumbing. Start with a few small joints, get your wings and then you will be soldering like a pro...

Plumbing Tip: Check twice, three times before soldering...

Feeling pleased with myself, I lovingly looked over my plumbing work for the shower late on Sunday, only to find I made a huge plunder!

I installed the faucet upside down!

It turns out the the faucet will actually work but the labeling for the hot and cold on the cover will be reversed and upside down. I guess I could leave it but I am a perfectionist, and this mistake would just be staring me in the face every time I take a shower.

So it has to be fixed...

How it happened:
I had done all the right things. Measured, dry fit, and assembled all the pipes in place. In order to protect the vapour barrier, I disassembled the pipes and then re-assembled it on the floor, over a piece of metal for soldering.

In doing so I had flipped the faucet upside down!

I am kicking myself as a last minute check before soldering would have picked up the error...

Alas I did this around 10:30 PM on the evening before. Tired and ready to call it a night I forgot to check it twice...

Guess what I am doing this upcoming weekend...

6 Tips for Insulating an Attic

Insulating the attic, or above the ceiling, is a bit more difficult than insulating walls but done right everything will go smoothly. Here are a few hard learned tips...

1) Cover up - Protect Yourself
Be safe! We covered this in a previous post (see it here).

2) Use Lots of Staples
The weight of the insulation is supported by the vapour barrier until the drywall is installed. The weight can be substantial PLUS there is added pressure as you are moving and placing each batt of insulation. Before the drywall is in place the only thing holding the vapour barrier to the ceiling joists are the staples. Use lots of staples. We found that one every 3 inches seems to work really well. Anything further apart than 6 inches just wasn't secure enough. Trust me I learned the hard way...

3) Overlap Vapour Barrier by one Stud
Another trick was to overlap the vapour barrier by one ceiling joist pair. This means that every 6 feet or so there is a double thickness of vapour barrier. This provides extra holding strength for the insulation -- mostly because you are doubling the number of staples in that section.

4) Lots of Tuck Tape
Tuck tape is the red stuff in the picture above. It is used to seal the joints between the sections of vapour barrier and around the holes for the electrical openings. Not only does this ensure a complete vapor seal, it adds additional holding strength. Use lots of tape! It is not that expensive and an extra roll or two is not going to kill the budget.

5) Use a Bread Knife
With mineral wool, the brand we used is called Roxul, the best way to cut it is with a bread knife. And I recommend using a real bread knife. You can recognize a bread knife by its unusual shape. A bread knife has the tip pointing down, and has a serrated blade. Cutting Roxul is really just like cutting a loaf of bread! Other knifes which are better for cutting glass wool insulation just do not work well with mineral wool.

I actually keep two knifes when working with Roxul a bread knife plus a standard box cutter which I use to open the bags of insulation.

6) Change Directions
It is generally recommended that you approach an R40 value when insulating an attic. This will mean using two layers of insulation. To get the best coverage place one layer between the ceiling joists, and then one across this layer perpendicular to the direction of the joists. Because the ceiling joists are mostly 2 x 4's in our attic we used R14 for the first layer, as it fit perfectly. We covered this with a layer of R22 across the joists. In total we have R36.

It is worth the effort...
With the above tricks and tips you can save yourself a lot of grief. It takes a marginal amount of extra time but in the face of the consequences a great insurance policy.

3 Safety Tips For Insulation

Over the past two weekends we partially completed the insulation of the ceiling. It is a much harder task that can be anticipated. Working in small spaces with your access obstructed by joints, chords and other braces can be quite exhausting.

We learned a few lessons on keeping it safe and comfortable:

1) Wear a mask
The air, particularly in the attic, just gets filled with bits of insulation. I can't imagine what that does to your lungs.

2) Wear light clothing
It was a cool day when we were up in the attic about 13 degrees Celsius not comfortable without a sweater outside. But the temperature still climbed in the attic. Perhaps the effort squeezing around up there made me even warmer, but I was drenched when we finished. I recommend light clothing!

3) Cover up
You should try to cover your entire body with some light clothing. While the mineral wool is not as irritating as glass wool it still is a bit irritating. AND I recommend wearing gloves that reach up your arm. I had a white suit made of light weight Tyvek material left over from the spray foam task (see previous post), so I reused it. It proved to be perfect for insulation -- it was light and it covered me from head to foot. I ended up just wearing a t-shirt under the Tyvek suit - so I kept as cool as was possible.

Stay Tuned...

Lot's have been accomplished up at the Cottage this past week, including:

All the electrical is in
Waste plumbing was completed
Vent plumbing was completed
Insulation and vapour barrier for the Main floor was completed
Half of the ceiling in the Main floor has insulation and vapour barrier
Half of the insulation in the basement is installed

But alas you will have to wait until next week to get the details, as I am traveling to Halifax this week and don't have access to my computer.

By the time I return to posting... Oct 20th the following needs to be completed:

All the insulation and vapour barrier everywhere...
Water supply lines to the bathrooms and the kitchen

See you on October 20th....

Installing A Toilet: Part 1

As a mentioned in the previous posts, we started the installation of the plumbing last weekend. The first major task was to install the waste lines. We started in the room furthest from the exit to the septic tank. This happens to be the main floor bathroom.

Previously I described the first steps in installing the bath tub and the shower. Next was the roughing in of the waste lines for the toilet.

The right location for the toilet is usually (and it was for our toilet) 12 inches from the wall behind the toilet and at least 12 inches on either side. It is important to remember to add in the thickness of the wall coverings on your walls in that measurement. The includes the drywall and anything like wainscoting or paneling you may be placing on to of that.

Plus is more ascetically pleasing to center the toilet between the wall and the shower (in our case). Unfortunately, the prefect centre was obstructed by a floor joist so the toilet is positions just to the left of center - a bit closer to the wall.

We actually did not extend the false wall that was built behind the shower to behind the toilet. The supply lines come up from the floor, hence, are well insulated. Plus another 4 inches meant the toilet would be unacceptably protruding in to the room.

Beside the shower base, in the first picture you can see the waste pipe coming up through the hole in the floor. Not yet connected, the toilet flange is sitting on the floor next to the pipe.

MORE TO COME!
In upcoming posts we will be describing the installation of the toilet, but first we put in the waste plumbing over the next few posts...

Installing a Shower: Part 1

We started the installation of the plumbing last weekend. The first major task was to install the waste lines. We started in the room furthest from the exit to the septic tank. This happens to be the main floor bathroom.

To get the right location for the drain from the shower, it was necessary get the base plate out of its shipping box and place it where it is to be installed.

It was actually a bit more complicated than that!

I wanted the supply lines to the shower to be well insulated. So rather than put them in the exterior wall, I created a false wall in the inside to house the supply lines tot he show tap and the shower head. When framing this false wall it is important to make sure you frame the right side area centered in the wall so that the tap and shower head are centered in the shower. BTW you can see the copper pipe for these lines leaning over the shower base.

You will notice that it was necessary to insulate and install the vapour barrier in the exterior wall PRIOR to building the false wall.

Now we placed the shower base in the proper location and drilled the hole. We drilled it a comfortable 5 inches in diameter to ensure there was plenty of play for the waste pipe as well future access for repairs and inspection.

It the picture you can see the shower base with the the waste pipe coming up through the hole.

MORE TO COME!
In upcoming posts we will be describing the installation of the shower, but first we put in the waste plumbing over the next few posts...

Installing a Claw-Leg Bath Tub: Part 1

3 Reasons Why I Love Roxul (Mineral Wool) Insulation

Last weekend we started putting in some of the insulation after the electrician finished his work on the main floor. The little bit of insulation we did confirmed my previous experiences with Roxul, and why I like using the material so much:

1. Roxul Doesn't cause a rash
With fibreglass insulation you have to take all kinds of precautions to cover yourself up. With Roxul the only thing I do is wear gloves.

2. Roxul is more fire & water resistant
...and they have the stats to prove it (www.roxul.com). Roxul melts at over 1000 degrees C which is almost twice the temperature that fibreglass wool melts at. Water just runs off Roxul, whereas the glass wool stuff seem to wick up water.

3. Roxul is simply easier to install
Roxul is a firmer material, thus it fills the walls much nicer - it just feels like it isn't going to compress or fall in the cavity like the glass wool products always seem to prefer to do. It cuts easily with a bread knife. It installs nicely - it has a side that compresses nicely to assist installing it - and this side is clearly marked.

An added bonus reason:

4. Roxul has great soundproofing properties
Roxul is the stuff most sound rooms are insulted with.

Roxul is marginally more expensive but well worth the extra cost in my estimation...

Insulation Tip: Vapour Barrier Behiond Electrical Boxes

If you are serious about insulating then you are serious about creating a good vapour barrier in the inside of the insulation. The vapour barrier is only as good as long as you minimize the number of holes through it.

All the electrical boxes represent a huge hole in the vapour barrier. It is key that vapour barrier be installed behind every electrical box. The picture illustrates what my electrician did for every electrical box he installed.

When you come to install the vapour barrier, sealing these holes is a snap. All you will have to do is cut a small slit in the vapour barrier, pull the small sheet behind the box through the hole and seal it with acoustic sealant and/or tuck tape.

Again it pays off to plan ahead! Trying to retrofit vapour barrier behind the box after it is in place is near impossible.

Coming in future posts: Vapour barriers for electrical boxes are not the only place to insert them prior to insulating. In future posts we will explore more tricks to make it go smoothly.

3 Tips for Communicating with Your Electrician

My electrical contractor started this past Saturday. It is amazing how fast they can install the electrical!

They began about 9 am and were heading home at 3 pm after completing the electrical for the entire main floor. And that included telephone and cable.

They obviously have done it a few times before...

But I think some up front preparation on my part and great communication with the electrician helped make it easier for them. Here are a few tips I recommend:

1. Be Detailed in your Request for Quote

Good communication starts before the electrician even arrives. In my request for a quote I provided a layout of both floors of the cottage and clearly indicated where things needed to be. And that means everything! Often your architect plans will provide this. I needed to amend the plan however because (a) I am finishing the basement and b) wanted a different layout for the kitchen.

Being upfront means the electrician knows exactly what kind of material to bring including bath room vents, baseboard heaters, pot lights, etc...

2. Label the locations

The weekend prior to the arrival of the electrician, my wife and I did a walkabout in the Cottage, imagining where everything goes and discussing the various options. Once we settled on a location we stapled a label in the location.

This walkabout is particularly important to get the right location of the ceiling fixtures. Only you know where the dining room table is going or the kitchen island. Left to their own, the electricians are like to just centre the fixtures in the middle of the space - perhaps not in the location you would choose.

3. Be there on the first day

Plans are not exact, and the locations you picked may not be optimal or to code so it is important to do a walkabout with the electrician to confirm the locations and make adjustments. It is here where you can share with him why you choose that location. Plus your nomenclature for the labels may not be his - communication closes the gap.

Our electrician was amazed at the labels - I guess he doesn't often get such help from his clients. The walkabout went much faster because of it. He did make a few suggestions, and so we moved things around slightly.

4. Setup Key Plumbing Electrical Fixtures

The plumbing system has a pressure tank with a connection to the pump in the lake, a sewage sump pump, tankless water heater, and a UV Filter. All require 110 volts. It is real helpful to the electrician if these are at least installed in their locations. That way the electrician can install the required outlets in the right locations. Otherwise he may just put them in the 'area' not taking in to consideration the layout of these fixtures.

What other tips can you recommend when dealing with the electrician?

Dale's goes to the Dark side...

Brad Dale had warned me, but driving up on Friday night I was startled to see that Dales Home Building Centre had become Dale's RONA Building Centre. The change was even more pronounced when I visited Dale's the next morning to pickup some plumbing materials. Not only was the big blue sign up on the front of the store but very pronounced inside the store. Brad and his father Bobby, and all the staff were proudly wearing RONA gear.

My initial feeling was not positive as my dealings with the RONA store closest to my home (Innis Road in Ottawa was and continues not to be great (see previous post). This local store is filthy, the staff surely, the inventory is poorly organized and the prices seem on average to be more expensive. My wife won't join me when I go tot he store. The Home Depot across the road from it is the exact opposite: clean, well organized, great prices and the people are on you like flies to help...

But then I remembered that the biggest reason I selected Dale's Building Centre was because of the owners. They run the store superbly! They are friendly and always willing to help and suggest alternatives. I simply get great service.

I know that the great service will not disappear because they have switched to RONA. In fact after speaking to Bobby Dale, the owner, it is clear that by moving to RONA he actually has his customers best interests in mind. He feels the prices will be lower, the quality higher, and the speed of deliver faster.

I'm sticking with Dale's...

I believe that the quality of the store has everything to do with the owner or manager of the store.

I'd be interested in your opinion of service in the building materials industry, and the various suppliers - what has been your experience with RONA?

Electrical, Plumbing, Insulation: Great Progress Made!

This past weekend did wonders to improve the outlook that the Cottage project actually has a light at the end of the tunnel. While none of the key things listed in the were actually completed, great progress was made:

Electrical:
My contractor started this past Saturday. While their presence actually slowed our progress on the plumbing, the electricians, yes there were two of them, were amazing to watch!

They were actually able to complete all the wiring on the main floor (pictures to follow in posts this week). They were amazing to watch - clearing professionals. They accomplished in less that a full day what would have taken us perhaps two full weekends.

Plumbing:
We were able to complete the waste lines from the bathroom straight through to the septic tank. This included the waste lines from the shower, bath tub, sink and toilet. As an added bonus the bath tub (an old style, claw foot tub) was assembled and the beginnings of the water supply was roughed in. By roughed in I mean the pipes from the pressure tank were reoriented, the water filter and UV filter were 'nailed' tot he wall. (pictures to follow in posts this week)

Insulation:
Given that the electrical wiring for the main floor was complete, we can now insulate the walls and ceiling of the main floor. This wasn't on the schedule for this weekend but my son being a bit restless Saturday evening spent a few later hours insulating the exterior walls. All the fine insulation requiring cutting wasn't done but it represents a big jump on the insulation task for next weekend. (pictures to follow in posts this week)

Bosch 2400ES Tankless Water Heater: Sneak Peek

Here is a closer view and sneak peek at the Bosch 2400 ES Tankless Water Heater that we are installing in the cottage. In a previous post we described the rough installation we did to allow the electrician to install the electrical outlet for the heater.

As you can see from the picture it is not fully installed yet. There is lots more to do including:

Cold and hot water connections
Gas connection, in this case liquid petroleum (yes - Propane)
Exhaust vent
Air intake

The box sitting on top of the water heater contains the parts for the AQ3 ES horizontal vent kit. Just add a few more lengths of pipe and voila! we will have an exhaust vent and air intact.

COMING: In about two weeks we will be installing the water system to the water heater, and also the exhaust vent and air intake. The gas connection is planning to done in mid November

Installing the Woodstove Chimney

A few weekends ago I installed the portion of the chimney for the wood stove that goes through the attic. In this picture you can see the ceiling support assembly including the insulation protector plus a few lengths of insulated chimney pipe.

There are three lengths of insulated chimney pipe installed. From the bottom there are two 3-foot sections followed by one 2-foot section. These take the chimney to just under the roof.

My roofer will be returning to finish the installation of the chimney flashing and the rest of the chimney up through the flashing (see picture at left) and cap it with the chimney cap.

I can almost feel the warmth of the wood stove easing the aches of my muscles...

COMING: More information on chimney installation and chimney materials, plus the installation of the wood stove itself. That should be in early November...

Installing the Water System: Materials Purchased

In anticipation for the weekend when we go hog-wild installing the water supply system, I have been stockpiling the materials.

Here you see:

Two rolls (each 50 feet) of 3/4-inch PEX water pipe - these are the smaller rolls secured with black ties.

Two rolls (each 250 feet) of 1/2 inch PEX water pipe - these are the larger rolls secured with plastic wrap. There is one roll of red PEX and one white. I wanted a roll of blue but my supplier did not have any in stock. In any case the white PEX pipe was less expensive. I was hoping to use red for hot water and blue for cold water.

Not shown in the picture are all the PEX connectors, ball values, crimping tools, and other PEX materials

COMING: The supply system scheduled for installation in two week so stay tuned - I'll discuss then.

My Workshop is a Mess

My workshop in the basement of the Cottage is a mess! Actually an organized mess...

As I mentioned in a previous post I have been slowly moving my tools into the Cottage itself from the shed which has been their home during the early part of the construction. Now that the cottage is completely enclosed and secure, Leaving them in the cottage makes them more readily available.

At the end of each weekend we do collect all the tools throughout the cottage an 'store' them in the workroom. Maybe not in any organized fashion but at least we know where they are.

Having the tools in the cottage has been a godsend. Now lots of time is saved because:

they are already in the Cottage, no going up an out to the shed.
breakdown is simpler as the workshop is closer than the sled.
many times the tools do not move that far - for instance the air compressor and tank doesn't move we just plug it in, turn it on, grab the air nailer and then go to the location we need the nailer.

In a week or so, once the electrical has completed his work we can move the work table against the wall and then start to get more organized in the workshop.

Can you tell I am looking forward to having my workshop setup?

Installing the Water Pressure Tank

Similar to the tankless water heater we also rough-installed the pressure tank for the water system. Again this early installation was done so that the electrician would know were to install the electrical connections.

By way of describing what you are seeing in the picture, here are some features of this pressure tank.

The tank is over sized as I am recycling a tank which I initially had up at the cottage lot when I was powering by battery-stored solar generated electricity. With an oversized tank the pump works less and hence less draw on limited electricity storage. I will be using grid power but it still means I get great capacity
All those wires and electrical looking boxes make up the controlling system for the pump. When the pressure in the tank drops to a certain level the controller tells the pump to send more water.
The water intake is at that short pipe (ABS) stub about center of the picture.
In the bottom left you see the exit pipe of the waste system to the septic tank.
We built a stand to get the tank of the floor and at a manageable working height
The pump is in the lake so we are employing a drain back system - that is so the water doesn't freeze in the pipe in the winter. The vertical grey assembly to the left to left of the tank and attached to copper piping connecting it to the tank is used to vent the pipe during the drain back operation.

COMING: We will discuss in depth the water system, including the drain back system, in later posts

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