Nailing into Drywall: A Hard Lesson!

With the final bit of clear caulking the second shower - the one in the basement bathroom is finally complete.

The shower itself was a snap to install. The mistake that I made was not remembering where the cold water supply to the toilet was.

Yep! You got it! When I was securing the shower base to the studs I drove a screw right into the cold water pipe. Took me a while but I finally figured out where all the water was coming from. You see - as is always the case - the leaking water doesn't show up anywhere near the place where the actual leak is. Oh No! It appears somewhere like in the next room -- making you think you have a leak in the foundation wall until you remember that it is -20 Celsius outside and there is just no way that there is any water flowing in from outside - or at least I didn't see any ice cubes...

Well to make a long story short, after ripping out the drywall above the water supply to the toilet I discovered my mistake. After cutting out the perforated pipe and replacing it, then re-plastering and priming and then painting the wall... yes two weeks later (remember I have been only working on weekends) I was able to install the shower.

Went like a charm... except for the leak.

The Lesson Learned:
Always use the wire/pipe guards to shield your wires and pipe that go through studs...

;-)

3 Tips for creating a Pex Water Control Panel

Setting up a control panel for the cold water system is quite easy. Imagine doing this in copper! The soldering would be a nightmare... Pex pipe is definitely a DIY'rs dream

What we did is create a shut-off for each separate line to each location. In this case we have a separate line for each of:

• Each toilet (2)
  
• Upstairs shower
• Bath Tub and Sink (for upstairs)
• Kitchen
• Downstairs shower and bathroom sink

A few tips:

1) Use ball valve with 1/4 turn shut-off. With these you can see at a glance which are on and which are off. All in the picture are in the off position. The lever is in line with the pipe in the 'on' position.

2) Use a manifold that has the right number of nipples. This one has six, which is exactly what we needed.

3) Be sure to factor in a system drain. This is the cottage after all. If you are closing down the cottage for the winter it will be hugely helpful to have an easy way to drain the system for winter. In our setup the bottom pipe provides a means (off the picture) to drain the system.

Related Posts:
4 reasons why pex is a diy plumber's dream!
Pex versus copper piping: pros & cons

;-)

Home Depot & Viqua: Amassing Waranty Service!

Two weekends ago the power supply for my TrojanUVmax UV filter just stopped working, for no apparent reason. I went through all the troubleshooting steps in the manual - still kaput! I disconnected it and brought it home with me, confident that with a five year warranty I was looking at a no cost replacement.

At first I thought I was about to get the warranty run-around between the manufacturer and the dealer. You see I purchased the UV unit through Home Depot online. The manual and warranty stated I should call Trojan, which turned out to be Viqua, a Trojan subsidiary. So call I did.

I didn't wait long on the phone and I was speaking with a a real person at Viqua. A polite fellow, Marc, took all the details, serial number, part number, and asked where I got it. Then I got a bit worried. He stated that it was their policy that all warranty requests need to be processed through the dealer from which I purchased the unit, in this case, Home Depot online.

So I went to the Home Depot website, searched and found a telephone number to call. After another short wait I was greeted by a spunky gal, in customer support at homedepot.ca. Discovering that I have purchased the unit almost a year ago, she informed me that Home Depot only handles warranty returns only for the first three month.

Then I got a bit concerned! Was I about to go into warranty limbo, tossed between the various supply chain players?

I was then pleasantly surprised when after being put on hold for a time, a long time actually (I was getting even more worried), the Home Depot gal came back on the line. She had been speaking with the Viqua people, Marc to be specific, and had solved the issue, right then and there. Marc would be calling me back with a solution.

Sure enough, Marc called two days later, and said they would be replacing the unit, but that it might take a bit as they were low on parts, but expecting a shipment by the end of November. Then I was put on hold... Turned out it was a worthwhile wait, as Marc informed me they had been able to find one.

Marc then apologized that I would be responsible for the shipping cost for me to return the damaged unit but that I would receive a new unit ASAP. I was pleased to pay for the shipping!

ASAP really did mean ASAP!

I packaged the damaged unit up, and after giving Canada Post $11.99 sent the registered and insured package last Thursday - late in the day.

I was totally surprised, and delighted to no end, when I received the new replacement first thing on Friday morning. Now that is ASAP service! The two packages must have past each other in the system...

I quickly opened the box to discover that Vique had sent the new model of power supply as a replacement. Basically does the same thing but in a nicer, more user friendly format. On further inspection the power cord was not in the package - I had sent the one I had with the damaged unit.

I quick call to Marc at Viqua, and the problem was resolved - a new power chord would be sent ASAP - and again it was - Monday morning it came! Plus Marc emailed me the manual for the new model.

This is how service should be!

Here are my observations:

1) Both Home Depot and Viqua took responsibility
2) Home Depot took the lead resolving the impasse, but Viqua delivered
3) It was fast!
4) The people were very pleasant and very service oriented.

As a result, both Home Depot and Viqua (Trojan) will have a fan and champion - I tell everyone about my great experience.

Coming Up:
This weekend I am up to the Cottage - the task at hand is to continue installing the basement bathroom: vinyl floor, toilet, plumbing for the shower and sink. Subsequent trips will address: installing the shower stall, the molding for the baseboards, door and window, and also a cover for the basement jack post.

Related Posts:
Creating Clean Water at the Cottage
;-)

Making Space in A small Cottage Bathroom

Sometimes space is at a premium in a Cottage. A good example is the bathroom.

We are in the middle of adding a second, much smaller bathroom to complement the two bedrooms in the basement. Our checklist included:

• Toilet
• Sink/Vanity
• 38" x 38" Shower stall

In a 6' x 7' space this could be a tight fit.

Fortunately we were able to final a low profile sink and vanity combination. As you can see in the (rather poor) photograph we have used vanity which is only half as deep as the more common versions. To provide the same sink real estate the bowl sticks out over the vanity.

The effect is fabulous!

It provides a full function vanity and sink taking up only half the usual space. The room feels positively airy

Suppliers:
We purchased the vanity/sink combination from Home Hardware. The faucet we purchased at Home Depot.
;-)

Snow Shovel time! and Chrismas bells are ringing...

The weather was actually beautiful for this time of year (this past weekend) up at the Cottage. It was an unseasonably warm 15 to 17 degrees Celsius -- short sleeve weather!

Still I needed to do a bit of shoveling to clear the ramp and the stair up to the front door.

...and of course it was natural act to just to leave the shovel by the front door -- after all I will likely be needing it the next time we are up to the Cottage.

Another sign of the season is the preparation and decoration leading up to Christmas. As you can see in the picture to the right I put up a traditional spruce bow Christmas wreath to keep the shovel company.

Coming Up:
In the next few trip up the Cottage I intend to complete the downstairs bathroom. That will involve pretty much the same installation as the main bathroom - just in a small space and without a tub.

I will be installing:

• A shower stall,
• Toilet,
  
• A sink/vanity, and
• vinyl flooring.
  

Related Posts:
The Snow has Arrived: November 7th
;-)

Making the Crap Flow Up Hill

 When the water system is below the pipe to the septic system, you need to make the shit flow up hill, counter to the laws of physics.

How do you do that?

Well you do it with a pump which is inside a septic basin below your basement floor, and thus below the source -- all the showers, sinks and toilets in the basement.  This pump chews up all the 'lumps' and pumps them up wards and in to the pipe to the septic system.

The Check Valve: Stopping the Shit from rolling down hill
A key element of this system is the check valve shown in the picture to the right.  A check value only allows the fluid, and the 'crap' it contains to only flow one direction.  When the pump stops any material in the pipe above the check valve stays above the valve, and does not flow back into the septic basin.

That's how you make shit flow up hill, and stay there!

Related Posts:
installing the septic system - status
installing a shower: part 1
installing a toilet: part 1
;-)

Start Planning for the Shower Before you build the Bathroom

The installation of the shower is pretty much one of the last things you are going to do in the bathroom, however, just about everything you do and build in the bathroom will impact the shower stall. Here is a few things to plan for:

1) Layout of the Bathroom
Make sure they is enough room between and among the various facilities in the bathroom - the tub, the shower, the toilet and the sink. Keep in mind a window is a good thing, and make sure that there is sufficient ventilation....

2) Shower Drain Position
Each shower stall has a very specific location for the drain in the shower base. YOU NEED TO KNOW THIS VERY PRECISE DIMENSION WHEN IN STALLING THE WASTE PLUMBING. get it wrong and the base of the shower just won't fit!

3) Insulating the Water Supply
If the shower will be in an exterior wall ensure there is plenty of insulation to keep the pipe warm in the wall... TIP: create a false wall in the inside of the normal and insulated wall to house the piping...

4) Installation of the Shower Stall
Each shower has unique installation process. For instance the base of the shower stall we installed was inset in to the drywall so the walls when installed overlap the lip on the base - to create a water seal.

Advice: Buy your shower stall before to install the plumbing, and read the instructions first!

Related Posts:

Five More Tips for Installing a Shower - May 23, 2009

Installing a Shower: Part 1 - Oct 12, 2008

4 Reasons Why PEX is a DIY Plumber's Dream! - Nov 04, 2008

Plumbing Tip: Check twice, three times before soldering... - Oct 23, 2008

;-)

All the Comforts of Cottage...

In my previous post I mentioned that it is getting a whole lot more comfortable on our weekend treks tot he cottage to complete the finishing touches on the inside of the cottage.

The weather has been fretfully cold these past few weekends - getting as low as -31 Celsius!

But with the baseboard electrical heating in, and working, and a lovely wood stove, it is quite comfortable. Top that off with an almost functioning kitchen meals are less like camping these days.

As you can see we have a functioning fridge and also a stove (hidden to the right). With no running water yet, we bring up a couple of jerry cans of water each weekend. It provides enough water for drinking, cooking and a few flushes of the toilet -- a welcome luxury for the better half -- yep! that's her in the picture....

Related Posts:

Installing a Cottage Kitchen - Oct 26, 2008

;-)

Waiting for Spring...

On Saturday January 3rd we passed the milestone of moving my furniture that was stored in storage at PODS to the Cottage.

We are not yet finished inside but sufficiently finished to accept furniture. This way I save the storage charges, thus freeing up cash to devote to the Cottage.

In the picture you see the garden bench I had in my garden in the front of the Condo I sold in May. ...and as the title suggests I can't wait for spring to enjoy it again!

Coming Up:
As you can see I have been away from the blog for a few weeks. The blog has been a casuality of the Christmas holiday and spending most of the time up at the Cottage doig the final touchs so that we could bring up the furniture.

Over the past three weeks we have accomplished much which I will share with you over the next few posts - possible a week of more of posts - I might even have to do multiple posts per day. We will see what my work schedule allows. We accomplished the following:

• Installed laminate floor on the main floor
• Installed vinyl floor in the main bathroom
• Installed the IKEA kitchen cabinets
• Installed the bath tub, the toilet and the bathroom vanity and sink.
• Completed the plumbing for the bathroom in the ceiling of the basement.
• Started the railing for the stairs downstairs.
• The taping and plastering of the drywall was completed, and primed.
  
• Painted the ceiling and walls of the main floor
• Installed the refrigerator and stove
• Installed the microwave oven
• The electrical was completed including all the baseboard heaters, switches, outlets, and light fixtures (some temporary)
• Started on the baseboard trim.

In the months of January and February we hope to accomplish the following:

• Install the baseboard and window trim on the main floor
• Install the interior doors
• Complete the hand railings for the stairwell
• Install the closet doors on the main floor.
• Install the subfloor in the basement
• Paint the walls and ceilings in the basement
• Install the laminate floor in the basement.
• Finish connecting the plumbing in the basement
• Connect up the gas supply to the tankless water heater
  

Related Posts:

Cottage on the Edge: 10 tips for packing a PODS Container - May 26, 2008

;-)

Disabled-Persons Modifications

My Mother had a stroke, and hence, has difficult maneuvering around a toilet like many disabled persons.

Knowing that I would be installing a assisting bar on the wall beside the toilet, I installed extra wood supports between the wall studs. Now when I come to install the bar I will be assured there is plenty of support to screw into.

In the picture, just below and above the wire, I installed a 2x10 block in the two stud spaces beside the toilet.

This is only one of several modification for the disabled I will be adding to the construction considerations. The key is to think through the disabled person's needs and build in the necessary modifications during the construction. It is often more difficult, sometime imposable to may the changes afterwards.

In this case installing the supports before the drywall makes the a lot easier, and eliminates the guess work of where the studs are later.

Related Posts:

;-)

3 Reasons to Build your own Stub-outs

I like to build my own stub-outs.

Stub-outs are the end portions of your water supply that stick out of the wall or the floor. It is these pipes that are ultimately connected tot he faucet, toilet, etc.

While I am a DIY plumber, not a professional, I have a few reasons why I like to make my own stub outs to share:

1) One size doesn't fit all
For the most part I find the stub-outs are not long enough for my liking. I know my limitations for soldering so I just wanted a bit more copper sticking in to that vanity or base cabinet. That way I have a few more options when I come around tot he final connections. Hey I can always cut off a bit of copper - adding more length can be done bu tis a pain in the butt!


2) Make PEX connections in accessible locations.
I was just more comfortable making the transition connection between PEX pipe and copper in a location that I could easily get to later. Having it in a wall behind a vanity cabinet would mean removing the cabinet and cutting in the wall. By having the connection to the PEX in the area between the floor joists meant that I would only have to cut a hole in the ceiling below.

3) Stronger material at the rub
Being a first time user of PEX I was just a little bit concerned about places where the PEX may be subject to wear and tear - namely at the exits to various applications. So I decided to use tried and true copper in those locations

In many of the locations I could have brought the PEX pipe right to the appliance, however, I choose to error on the side of caution.

Avoiding Freezing Pipes: Part 1

The best way of avoiding pipes freezing is to not place pipes in exterior walls. However, it is not always possible to do that.

It the basement bathroom, I was able to design the layout so that the shower and vanity plumbing would be in interior walls. Only the cold water supply tot he toilet need to be installed in the wall.

While the pipe needs to be installed in the center of the stud wall you need to place All of the insulation BEHIND the pipe. It the picture to the right you can see that this rule was followed in only two of the three stud openings. This was an error that was quickly fixed before the vapour barrier was stapled on.

Other things to Note in the Picture:

• We used white/grey PEX for all the cold water supply
• The drain for the toilet is in the bottom right corner of the picture
• We created our own stub-outs using 1/2-inch coper pipe
  

NEXT In Part 1:
Tomorrow I will discuss the second option for insulating pipes in exterior walls - creating a wall inside a wall...

Installing A Toilet: Part 1

As a mentioned in the previous posts, we started the installation of the plumbing last weekend. The first major task was to install the waste lines. We started in the room furthest from the exit to the septic tank. This happens to be the main floor bathroom.

Previously I described the first steps in installing the bath tub and the shower. Next was the roughing in of the waste lines for the toilet.

The right location for the toilet is usually (and it was for our toilet) 12 inches from the wall behind the toilet and at least 12 inches on either side. It is important to remember to add in the thickness of the wall coverings on your walls in that measurement. The includes the drywall and anything like wainscoting or paneling you may be placing on to of that.

Plus is more ascetically pleasing to center the toilet between the wall and the shower (in our case). Unfortunately, the prefect centre was obstructed by a floor joist so the toilet is positions just to the left of center - a bit closer to the wall.

We actually did not extend the false wall that was built behind the shower to behind the toilet. The supply lines come up from the floor, hence, are well insulated. Plus another 4 inches meant the toilet would be unacceptably protruding in to the room.

Beside the shower base, in the first picture you can see the waste pipe coming up through the hole in the floor. Not yet connected, the toilet flange is sitting on the floor next to the pipe.

MORE TO COME!
In upcoming posts we will be describing the installation of the toilet, but first we put in the waste plumbing over the next few posts...

Electrical, Plumbing, Insulation: Great Progress Made!

This past weekend did wonders to improve the outlook that the Cottage project actually has a light at the end of the tunnel. While none of the key things listed in the were actually completed, great progress was made:

Electrical:
My contractor started this past Saturday. While their presence actually slowed our progress on the plumbing, the electricians, yes there were two of them, were amazing to watch!

They were actually able to complete all the wiring on the main floor (pictures to follow in posts this week). They were amazing to watch - clearing professionals. They accomplished in less that a full day what would have taken us perhaps two full weekends.

Plumbing:
We were able to complete the waste lines from the bathroom straight through to the septic tank. This included the waste lines from the shower, bath tub, sink and toilet. As an added bonus the bath tub (an old style, claw foot tub) was assembled and the beginnings of the water supply was roughed in. By roughed in I mean the pipes from the pressure tank were reoriented, the water filter and UV filter were 'nailed' tot he wall. (pictures to follow in posts this week)

Insulation:
Given that the electrical wiring for the main floor was complete, we can now insulate the walls and ceiling of the main floor. This wasn't on the schedule for this weekend but my son being a bit restless Saturday evening spent a few later hours insulating the exterior walls. All the fine insulation requiring cutting wasn't done but it represents a big jump on the insulation task for next weekend. (pictures to follow in posts this week)

Houston, We have a Concrete basement Floor...

When I arrived on This past Friday I was pleased to see that the contractor have poured the concrete basement floor.

The basement floor is usually poured well after the roof is on and the building closed in. This is so the concrete is not rained on or otherwise compromised by materials destroying the nice finish the concrete contractor puts on the floor.

It was kind of a nice feeling having the basement floor in - sort of a milestone of sorts... I could imagine what was to be built in the basement - two bedrooms, a workshop, bathroom and a laundry room, plus another living room area.

The floor is given a nice smooth finish and the concrete sloped, ever so gradually towards the drains that I install earlier. There are two drains. Can you determine where they are in the above picture? A clue -- there are a few water marks that give it away.

In a previous post (see "How to Make Sh#t Flow up Hill"") I described the process of putting in the plumbing under the basement floor. In the above and next two pictures you can see the almost finished product.

The first picture at the left shows, starting in the foreground, the water intake from the lake (with the wires taped to it), the sewage basin, the shower drain and the toilet waste pipe.

Of course these fixtures are not yet finished in that they need to be connected. each will have a specific adapter glued to it. For instance the toilet waste pipe will have something called a closet flange.

In the picture to the left, you see, from left to right, one of two floor drains and the wastes and vent pipe that will be used to drain the laundry tub and the washer.

The pictures don't quite do it justice but the floors are really smooth!

3 Key Conveniences for a Happy Construction Team

Except two weeks of vacation, the construction schedule has most of the construction happening on weekends. We all have day jobs -- so my construction team, consisting mostly of my three sons and my wife, donate their weekends to the cause. I have been taking every Friday off in the month of June to prepare the construction site, and to get whatever I can get started.

Long and hot days make for tired and sore bodies. Out in the great outdoors it is difficult to have the conveniences of home - but we try.

1. Comfortable Sleeping arrangements
Nothing is more dangerous is tired workers. I set out to ensure we could provide the best under the circumstance. I am fortunate in that I had a headstart. I had previously built a small one room bunkie which can accommodate 2 -3 people, and a gazebo.

In the gazebo I have semi-permanently (for the summer construction season) pitched a 3 - 4 person tent. I furnished it with comfy mattresses, pillows and sleeping bags.

The bunkie has a futon for two and a small loft with a single mattress. Both come with pillows and blankets.

2. Private Toilet Facilities
There is an outhouse with a composting toilet. Composting toilets although taller than conventional toilets have the same features once you climb on to them.

3. Washing Capabilities
For full body washes (aka showers and baths) the facility is found just over the edge of the dock. Combined with a ecologically positive bar of soap and bottle of shampoo, the lake makes for effective if not a bit cool wash-down. As it has been very hot and humid I haven't been hearing any complaints!

In the interim and for times when a bit of touch-up is required - like when my wife insists we wash our hands before meals, we use wipes. They work very effective, and they are great for getting the insect repellent off just before climbing in the very welcome bed and sleeping bag each night.

4. Good Food & Drink
Food and drink is probably the easiest. We simply use a BBQ and carry our food up to the cottage for the weekend in a cooler. Our BBQ comes with a side burner so making coffee or tea or boiling water to wash dishes is very easy.

Keeping drinks and food is a bit of a problem beyond a few days as the ice pack are really being taxed in the hot weather. However, we retrieved a refrigerated cooler from storage and have plugged that in to the generator during the day. The 'boosted' cooler seems to keep things just a bit cooler. It only runs when we have the generator on to power our construction tools but for the past two weekends that has been pretty consistently from 9am to 7pm each day, with short spots for lunch and supper.

We keep the booster cooler with drinks and a big water jug right at the construction site, within easy reach for anyone to crack open a cool one.

...and regarding the 'Cool ones', beer is strictly for the after-supper celebration of a fine day's work, and to help ease the pain of those long under-exercised but now overused muscles. We use drinks with great electrolyte balance, like the most commonly recognized Gatorade.

How to make Sh#t Flow Up Hill!

Yes it can be done!
You can indeed make the ugly stuff of toilets, showers and sinks flow up hill.

The problem is that the basement of the Cottage is below the septic system. This is a problem because I intend to build a bathroom down in the basement, complete with a toilet, shower and sink. Furthermore, the laundry room will be in the basement. I think we all realize that our modern sanitation systems make heavy use of Newton's discover of gravity to take our waste away. (BTW - that is the hole in the concrete wall that will eventually lead tot he septic tank.)

The problem is solved by burying a sewage basin under the concrete floor of the basement, into which all the sources of water, both black and grey water, in the basement are piped to. A special macerating pump is installed in the sewage basin which pumps the evil mixture up into the sewage pipe leading to the septic tank.

6 Steps to making Sh#t flow up hill:

STEP 1: Plan
You need to know exactly where your bathroom fixtures are going to be right down to the center of the holes (where the pipes go) for the toilet (usually about 16 inches from the side and 12 inches from the back), and the shower (this one is trick because every manufacturer does it differently - so pick out your shower and get its dimensions ahead of time.

STEP 2: Dig
...and I mean lots of digging!
After planning out the rough locations of the toilet, the shower (or bathtub), and where the other fixtures go, like the laundry tub, the washing machine, you will need to dig a trench for all the waste (sewer) lines and in the case of the sewage basin what seems to be a gigantic HOLE. The picture to the right shows the sewage basin and that hole, as well as the trench to the toilet.

Step 3: layout and Dry fit
It is very important that you get all the angles and lengths of pipe right before you glue all the pipes together. I found it important to lay it all out, fitting all the pipes together, and making sure it is all level and plumb. There is one rule! the pipes must all flow down hill at a grade of at least one quarter inch per foot of length. Sh#t really does only flow down hill after all...

These two pictures illustrate a few stages in Step 3 and 4.

Step 4: Level and Support
OK! I am going to tell you to do something again... Now that it is all together in a dry fit configuration, you need to keep for level and that quarter inch flow rule. THEN move the soil under the pipes to support the structure in the exact position it needs to be.

I found that the dry fit isn't as easy as it seems. When the pipes are dry (that means NOT glued), they don't really go all the way into their sockets, so this part is a bit of an art. You have to estimate the lengths.

Step 5: Gluing, and Final Leveling
Gluing is kind of neat. You put the glue on both parts: the pipe and the connector it is going into. Then move REALLY fast, because the glue sets very quickly. I quick back and forth twisting action makes the pipes go to get together really well.

TIP 1: Be sure to mark the place of each joint with a big long line on both parts so you know where and how they are to join. Also make sure mark goes beyond the area where the glue is going or you will loose the mark as it disappears into the connector.

TIP 2: Every structure is different but I found that creating logical assemblies and them putting the assemblies together really helped

Step 6: Bury your work.
Painful as it may be to bury your work of art you need to cover the whole works to maintain the level, stabilize it and to protect it from the weight of the concrete. And yes! Be sure to make sure all that burying hasn't put the structure our of level - so check constantly!

The next two pictures illustrate the finished structure with the crushed stone supporting and covering most of the pipes.

The first picture shows, in order from the front to the back, the pipes sticking up for the following: a floor drain, the waste and vent stack for the laundry room, another floor drain, the sewage basin which will eventually also have coming out from its top a vent stack, and the pipe to pump the water up to the septic tank line, the shower pipe and finally the toilet.

The second picture gives a closer view, going left to right, of the top of the sewage basin, the shower pipe, and the toilet pipe.

NEXT POST: I have so much to tell you I don't know what will be next - only to say there will be lots of next...

5 To Do's for the first Construction Weekend

The foundation is in, the first load of building materials arrive tomorrow, now it is time to plan for the construction team.

Here are my five To-Do's in preparation for the weekend:

1. Inform the Construction Team
If you have been following, I am fortunately to have three adult and strapping sons who are all know which end of a hammer to hold. The trick is herding them together and at the same time. The first weekend of construction is critical so I need all of them to pitch in.

From the start I have created a project plan and kept my sons fully in the loop as to timing -- they all have booked this weekend for the first big push. In fact they have all checked in to ensure the plan is still on track.


2. Keep it Safe, and Sane
Just because this is a family affair doesn't mean that all the needs of a safe construction site should not be observed. So be sure to ensure that all members of the construction team have all the necessary safety gear and appropriate gear, such as:

• Hard hats
• Work boots with steel toes and shanks
• Sun protection - sun screen, long pants and shirts, and hats
• Gloves
  

On site there are a few more rules that need to be effectively communicated and understood, including:

• Proper use of power tools
• Proper carrying techniques

Understand that with the summer heat, tight time frames, and potential set-backs, that you and your the members of your family construction team will be frustrated and that tempers will flare. A cool head from the leader will help to minimize the impact of frustration.

3. Grub and Hydration
Construction is hard work, and the hot sun and humidity play a significant part in the wellbeing of your construction team. So plan for great meals, and plenty of fluids. The issue of fluids can not be stressed enough. Keep these points in mind:

• Have them always easily available
• Have plenty
• Keep them relatively cool
• Pick fluids with good electrolyte balance (e.g. like Gatorade)
• Ban alcohol during the working part of the day

The beer should be kept for the end of the day celebration of accomplishment, over dinner and the camp fire. Just keep it in moderation because remember construction starts bright and early at 7 am sharp the next day...

On meals, I shouldn't need to tell you to keep them nutritious and simple.

4. Accommodations
If you are building in the great outdoors like we are then there won't be a hotel nearby so it is important to plan for as comfortable sleeping arrangements as possible. After a hard day of swinging a hammer the body needs its rest so it can start all over again the next day. My recipe for sleeping arrangements includes:

• Tents for every two members of the team
• Portable bed mattresses (single)
• Summer sleeping bags
  

On the subject of making is as comfortable, you need also to consider:

• Outdoor Kitchen: BBQs, coffee machine,
  
• Outdoor dining: Picnic table
• Covered area: in case it rains - it won't of course...
• Restroom: a portable toilet with a tarp over and around it goes a long way to making the female members of your team comfortable
• Washing arrangements: This will likely mean a bar of environmentally-safe soap and shampoo, a towel and the lake.
• a clothes line...
  

5. Teamwork
Remember that the family-based construction team are generally not professional framers and such, so building of the family cottage tends to be part learning experience. Take the time to communicate what needs to be done and how it needs to be done. Good communication leads to a good understanding of what needs to be accomplished and in what order:

• Describe each task clearly
• Assign tasks appropriately taking in consideration the skill and experience level of your team members. Pair up one experienced members with an inexperienced member.
  

...and there is one more key thing to remember...

6. Keep it fun
Everyone on the construction team is there because they want to. They are not being paid. They are doing it as a labour of love, and to share in the benefits of a family cottage. Don't make it a job -- try to keep everything upbeat! Even when disasters happen. Get their input, ask their advice, keep everyone involved.

So what is the plan for this weekend?

When we arrive tomorrow the foundation will be in and backfilled. The sonotubes for the surround deck will be in place. I intend to arrive early in the morning to set-up and receive the first shipment of materials. I also need to stop by the city offices to pickup the official building permit, and also to drop by Dale's Home hardware to pick up some of the small, loose material I need for the weekend.

The construction targets for this weekend are:

1. Frame the lakeside wall of the basement
2. Install the engineered floor: joists, rim boards and floor sheathing.
   
3. Install the plumbing in the basement floor in preparation for pouring the floor next week.

This is a tall order but if we don't encounter uncooperative weather it is doable... Keep you fingers crossed!